Review by Sam Gaiger-Marriott
Tucked away in one of the smaller spaces in the sprawling fourteen-gallery labyrinth of culture that is the Saatchi Gallery is an exhibition that could change the way we think about film, photography and the environment.
Featuring an eclectic mix of the work of four artists who stand at the forefront of the eco-conscious photography movement, the exhibition is a window into the potential of the waste materials, processes and methods long-forgotten by the digital world.
The artists featured include two founders of the Sustainable Darkroom, Hannah Fletcher and Edd Carr, whose ambition is with their artist-run research group to ‘lead a movement in challenging the environmental impact and sustainability of darkroom practices’. Indeed, their work, as well as that of the other featured artists Almudena Romero and Scott Hunter, is imbued with the natural world they seek to preserve.
Almudena’s photographic leaf prints form part of a series which depict gestures and actions of gardening. Working with leaves to highlight a wider innate interdependence with plants and nature, stemming from her time spent in her grandma's garden and years of research on photographic processes intertwined with the natural world, her sustainable prints and techniques recall fin de siècle photography created at the advent of photography itself. They combine the phantasmagorical beauty and elegance of Karl Blossfeldt with surrealist overtones, underscoring the ethos of the exhibition and the wider pulse of the eco-art world; the beauty is in the detail. Detail which, enabled by the plinths spotlighting her work across the floor, have also been cast into truly three dimensional resin sculptures that transform her prints. These pieces, created by using the bleaching power of direct sunlight on the chlorophyll pigments of a plant leaf, each reflects the unique chemistry of the light and exact conditions needed to render the print, with varying contrast, detail and tonality, drawing direct comparisons to the experimental work by Hannah Fletcher across the room.
Similarly, Scott Hunter’s work offers a scientific, phenomenological approach featuring incredibly detailed microscopic images of materials whose fascinating chiaroscuro seeks to illuminate the symbiosis between nature and photography. Hunter’s most impressive work here is a sprawling active sculptural piece that exhibits science in motion; specifically soil chromatography, built on the back of research into soil quality degradation due to the leaking of photographic materials. After weaving through Hunter’s other cyanotypes dotted around the gallery floor, across the room is another equally impressive functional eco-sculpture; Hannah Fletcher’s brutalist suspended silver diamond which, whilst looking like a prop from a Mad Max set, also works to remove silver from the waste created whilst developing photographs in the darkroom. This forms part of a wider focus from Hannah into minimising and repurposing excess materials from both the studio and the darkroom, nominally her work An Anthology of Studio Waste, a series which foregrounds their potential; with stunning watercolours made from waste photo chemistries on paper and Matisse-esque cut outs made from leftover studio sessions taught by her and the Sustainable Darkroom group.
Three blinking screens at the far end of the room show two films produced by Ed Carr which offer perhaps the most meta approach to the theme of the exhibition - his films visually discussing themes encompassing natural crises inextricably tied to our abuse of nature and the climate implications arising from that, some of which, for him, are very close to home, such as the 2018 wildfires on Saddleworth Moor. These are produced by repurposing photographic processes and natural materials into moving film, including using Super 8 developed in food waste to create I Am A Darkroom as well as his film Yorkshire Dirt, printed entirely on soil and depicting the destruction of rural agricultural landscapes and its effect on the wider climate crisis.
There is a sense that this exhibition offers a window into a new landscape of image creation, not limited by the four walls of the gallery and seeking to ask increasingly important questions about how and why we use, overuse and dispose of materials involved in photography, as well as our symbiotic relationship with the natural world upon which we so heavily depend.
The exhibition is sponsored by Pasqua wines, a Veneto wine company, owned by the Pasqua family. Founded in 1925, It runs up until the 28th July and admittance is free
Feast your eyes on flowers and food interpreted by photographers and art directors Nocera & Ferri @noceraferri and floral artist Ferve @___ferve
The use of aromatic and essential oils can be dated all the way back to 2000BC. The ancient worlds, from East to West, all used essential oils for fragrance, ritual and healing purposes. The effect of perfumes on the human body and early forms of aromatherapy were widely known - in 400 BC, Hippocrates, the 'father' of medicine, wrote that 'the way to health is to have an aromatic bath and scented massage every day’.
These early cultures recognised the therapeutic and rejuvenating properties of oils, both for the skin and the mind - the concept of the bath, a place of physical and spiritual cleansing.
Fast Forward to 2024 and today the use of fragrance, essential oils and aromatherapy has become part of everyday life.
Enter Nyita, a newcomer to the fragrance world and the creation of Rebecca Jaquest. A self confessed ‘super-smeller.’ Whose heightened sense of smell led her to create a new range of Essential bath and body oils based around exquisite perfume ingredients.
‘When I was expecting my first child,’ Rebecca explains, ‘I became hyper-aware of harmful ingredients. So, I set out to create the purest products in the world, containing nothing but organic ingredients – initially for me, then friends and family.’ And now, for the rest of us to enjoy.
Her project has taken five years to reach our bathroom. With no formal training in perfumery, entirely self-taught through thousands of hours of meticulous research, Rebecca brings a fresh perspective to the world of beauty, creating fine fragrances for her bath and home that are not ‘aromatherapy-based’, but are based around perfume ingredients thats are blended into oils. ‘As I don’t follow the traditional blending rules – base, middle, top notes – I believe I come at things from a different angle, bringing a fresh perspective. And, as a perfectionist, every finished product must be exceptional.’
Along her journey, Rebecca realised the importance of sustainable sourcing, and the impact that community trade with farmers and producers of the precious natural ingredients can have on their communities and livelihoods. ‘I discovered that even so-called “natural” ingredients may have been extracted with petrochemical solvents such as hexane.’
Rebecca decided to source her own ingredients. ’I literally began by contacting friends who lived in places which might prove a rich source of unusual, special ingredients.’ She went on to forge relationships with suppliers of patchouli (Rwanda), yuzu (from a remote Japanese island), jasmine (Columbia) and ‘thingye’, an unusually-named botanical from Bhutan.
‘We want our impact not only to be positive for the environment, but also for the local communities who produce the ingredients, all of which are organic. Giving back is hugely important to NYITA, and simply supporting organic farming and traditional methods has a significant impact; there is 50% more biodiversity of species on organic farms.’ Trading direct, explains Rebecca, ‘is also a vital way to guarantee the quality of our ingredients.’
Patchouli ‘Sourced from Rwanda, “The Land of a Thousand Hills”, this is a complex patchouli. It is smoky, woody and earthy. I smell a power in this scent, honouring the land where it comes from, which has survived and been reborn from the ashes.’ The organic patchouli provides a livelihood for impoverished communities that have been stricken by loss, offering an income for 200 local farmers. ‘It means widows can find hope again, orphaned young adults can imagine a brighter future and the poor can live more dignified lives.’
Thingye ‘Bhutan is a land of dramatic landscapes and ancient forests. Thingy – the Bhutanese name for Sichuan pepper – transports me across a trail of misty peaks and sacred mountains, where you will often find the lingering, warm, spicy scent of this ingredient used in incense burning rituals.’
Jasmine Sourced from Colombia, NYITA’s jasmine is produced according to the traditional technique of enfleurage, mostly now abandoned by the perfume industry, which sees these precious white flowers pressed into pure, natural wax, to extract their fragrance. ‘Enfleurage is a painstaking and ancient technique, resulting in a superior-scented jasmine. This exceptional scent is comforting and calming, and will seductively draw you into its floral embrace. It’s a divine scent and I am transported to tranquility when I smell it.’
Yuzu NYITA traced a supply of yuzu from a remote Japanese island. Explains Rebecca, ‘Its sparkling and citrus tones are steeped in a tradition spanning centuries. In Japan, on the day of the winter solstice, whole golden yuzu fruits are placed in the steaming water of a traditional hinoki wood tub, or hot spring. As these bright yellow fruits bob on the surface, they release their heavenly, uplifting and calming scent, and this indulgent ritual is said to bring good fortune to the bather for the year ahead. Elements like this, I believe, enhance the experience of using NYITA’s creations.’
There are six debut fragrances which can be used as a Bath Oil or Body Oil. Using ingredients more usually found in haute parfumerie, each batch of bath and body oils is allowed to ‘macerate’ for several months before it is crafted into oils in her lab. Every detail of their creation is overseen by Rebecca, who still hand-blends and fills each Italian glass bottle. The bottles themselves – and their aluminium caps – can also be recycled, while the black and gold boxes showcasing the oils are created from 100% recycled and recyclable card.
Celestia : experience ylang ylang extra brightened by neroli and bergamot, sometimes referred to in the world of precious fragrance ingredients as ‘green gold.’
First Light: A perfect prep for a calm, focused day ahead, a mind- opening and rebalancing blend of citronella, true lavender and spearmint.
Sunlit waters: breathing the almost salty scent of samphire, dazzling lemon and fresh Greenland moss..
Velvet Nuit: One of perfumery’s most precious ingredients, the pink damask rose, blends with soft vanilla and musky, almost animalic ambrette seed, in an intoxicating and unashamedly romantic fusion.
Yuzu Noir: Blended to ‘elevate your mood, bring you calm, relaxation – and maybe, just maybe, a little luck,’ this citrusy blend fuses mandarin, neroli and the uplifting oil of golden yuzu, revered in Japan for its power to invoke good fortune.
Du Jardin: A blend aromatic rosemary and relaxing rose geranium in a restorative blend that is perfect for tired muscles and weary minds.
Skin-friendly oils in the Bath & Shower Oils include sweet almond, apricot kernel, jojoba and sunflower oil, which give the skin a velvety touch.
Starting prices start at £139 ( 50ml) Her discovery set is £125 and contains 6 x 5ml bottles of each fragranced oil
Credits (Nyita website): Sichuan pepper Farmer in Bhutan, Patchouli in Rwanda, Jasmine in Columbia and Yuzu farmers in Japan
Home.
It drinks in the early morning light, drafts whisper through half-open windows, leaving cold reminders on a crumpled sheet, and the shadows of dusk tint the walls. It is the place where burnt toast lingers in the air long after the sacrifice of bread and mugs leave halos of tea on the surface of a table that bears the weight of so much expectation.
It is the space where sorrow and soul ache come to visit, where hearts gather for respite, seeking out refuge from matters of the world .
Home is also where hope settles.
In the creation of this story, Sacred Home, Nocera and Ferri gathered together acts of hope from basket-weavers, ceramicists, biodynamic farmers, artisan bakers, florists, tea makers - individuals whose creations are brought into homes every single day. We ask you to look at the magic of this photo story, to look again at items as gateways to memories, to lives, and stories. To untold tales of connection or unadulterated joy.
The sacred is not always something that is beyond, or above, it is often in the small things that we take for granted and handle every day The Sacred can be found in every touch and gaze and perhaps most importantly in the humdrum utility of life.
Photography and Set Design by Nocera&Ferriwww.noceraferri.com
Creative Direction by Hardeep Kaur www.perse.london
Photographers: Fanny Holmquist and Jakob Sandell at Studio Dipol
Stylist: Christian Karl Scaglione
Hair and Make-up: Tereza Luyirika
Model: Ellen Granlund at Le Management
Special thanks to Nina and Magnus Seter for the use of their garden
Photographer Sarah Edwards captures the sculptural beauty of the quiet fragile structures left behind.
In pursuit of roses – and stone
A sculpture exhibition takes centre stage in a riotously planted garden in the Cotswolds
Visit Asthall Manor in June and it appears to float into view, carried by its exuberant borders, with abundant sprays of roses covering the honey-coloured walls. Beyond the house and its parterre lawns, the riotously planted garden tumbles away through waves of yew hedges, meadow grasses, apple orchards and towering beech trees into the mill stream below.
The lightness of touch – head gardener Owen Vaughan works hard all day to achieve the impression he hasn’t turned up to look after his six-acre patch of idyllic Oxfordshire at all – is no small feat considering Asthall is a substantial Jacobean manor house built of Cotswold stone. Famous as the childhood home of the Mitford sisters, and supposedly the setting for Nancy Mitford’s novel Pursuit of Love, the garden is – for the next month – housing the midsummer On Form sculpture exhibition.
More than 300 pieces, all made of stone, have been artfully arranged in the grounds to provide the visitor with a trail to follow through a garden that invites you to wander. Look out for Anthony Turner’s tavertine Lovebomb and Regis Chaperon’s origami owl, carved of Carrera marble but giving the appearance of having been folded into form. If you’re lucky you might even see the real thing, as the local barn owl can be seen swooping into view, hovering low over the carved standing stones in the water meadow as it hunts for prey.
At least with guidebook in hand you’ll be able to track down any pieces that have caught your eye and with any luck you won’t get lost. Although that’s part of the pleasure here, losing your bearings as the garden slips away into a hidden lake, the mill stream, the water meadows and the Cotswolds beyond.
The 2022 exhibition runs from June 12 to July 10, 2022.
https://www.onformsculpture.co.uk/
https://www.asthallmanor.com/
Photographers Nocera and Ferri weave their magic with the tactile and sensory textiles of weaver and artist Francesca Miotti
After the excess of Christmas as some of us tackle January without alcohol. Award winning Apothecary and Herbalist, Amanda Saurin, has the answer for us.
Amanda is behind the organic botanical infusion drink, Wild Eve Recipe No. 1. . a small batch non-alcoholic drink hand crafted from a selection of organic flowers, fruits, leaves, and seaweeds. Foraged by hand on the Isle of Harris, in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland Amanda has carefully blended botanicals assist to reduce stress, alleviate anxiety, and invite calm through the innate properties of the plants.
Composing the recipe almost like creating a fragrance the drink opens with a citrus top note, moving into a floral, tannin rich body with notes of Chamomile, Rose and Honeysuckle, and finishes with an earthy peppery notes and a nip of the sea - It’s as rich and as intense as an alcoholic drink but with all the benefits of a natural herbal drink .
Amanda draws on decades of acquiring plant knowledge, understanding plant medicine and a theory that plants, like essential oils for perfumery, can be categorised into top, middle and base notes to construct something really exciting.
Currently being tried and tested at rakes HQ where we are all staying off the booze for the next month or so…. I can report it’s going down a treat…..Cheers
Ingredients: Harris Water, Organic Raw Cane Sugar, Citric Acid, Sloes, Harris Roses, Oats, Ashwaganda, Grapefruit Peel, Sugar Kelp, Juniper Berries, Chipotle CHILLIS, bitters, herbs, spices, Potassium Sorbate.
Creating Structures
Beautiful architectural forms were designed and created by a group of young people who took part in a one-day workshop for Oriel Myrddin Gallery, led by creative agent Mary Sikkel at the National Botanic Garden of Wales. This was part of the Arts Council of Wales funded Criw Celf (Art Crew) project, a gifted and talented programme for young artists from across Wales. The brief was to make architectural models of pavilions that the young artists thought would enhance the gardens, designing to fit their environment.
The pieces they created were inspired by botanical structures and forms, and designed to sit comfortably in their surroundings. The models, appeared as natural extensions of the ecosystem - miniature figures sailed around on floating covered rafts, reclined on soft moss and enjoyed the dappled light cast through their petal-shaped roofs by rudbeckias. All captured by photographer Heather Birnie.
Criw Celf creates opportunities for young people between nine and fourteen years of age, arranging for them to work with professional artists and designers in a series of arts workshops. The current exhibition in the main gallery space at Oriel Myrddin is a curated sample of their work from throughout 2021.
More information about the exhibition can be found at https://www.orielmyrddingallery.co.uk/home.
Images are courtesy of Heather Birnie.
Heather Birnie is a commercial photographer based in West Wales https://www.heatherbirniephotography.co.uk/.
Florence Griswold House
words: Saskia Gaiger - photographs: John Meunier
An artist staying at the Florence Griswold House in Old Lyme, Connecticut between 1899 and the mid 1930’s would find subject matter for his paintings, cheap lodgings, and like-minded company. A genteel hostel for geezers with easels, it quickly became a thriving community of artists and was known as the ‘American Barbizon’.
Once an affluent sea captain’s home during Old Lyme’s maritime era, the Florence Griswold House began its life as a vibrant base for the Lyme Art Colony when landscape artist Henry Ward Ranger arrived in Old Lyme in 1899 serendipitously just after Florence Griswold had opened up her family home as a boarding house. Ranger was keen to set up a new school of landscape painting and a colony such as he had seen on his travels in Europe. He found that Miss Florence’s house (as it was known to her boarders) was the ideal place in which to do this, given the beautiful surrounding countryside and convenient proximity to Boston and New York.
With the arrival of Childe Hassam in 1903 the stylistic focus of members of the colony shifted from Ranger’s Tonalism to Impressionism. Over the span of more than thirty years some of the most prominent American Impressionists passed through the colony and made some of their most significant work in and about Old Lyme. They also had a really good time – their artistic sincerity was accented with frivolity. Not only did they paint on canvases, but Florence Griswold’s exuberant boarders also painted all over the walls and doors of the boardinghouse. Most landladies would tear their hair out over this – but not Miss Florence. Instead, she considered these painted panels a testament to the artists’ time in the house and to her hospitality. These painted panels also reflected the subjects the artists were exploring in their other work – a mixture of Lyme landscapes and scenes from Europe and the Far East. The dining room was a particular favourite for decoration - it contains 38 panels by 33 different artists, which sprawl across the doors and walls.
The Fox Chase by Henry Rankin Poore unravels over the fireplace, and parodies the hunting scenes displayed in prints hanging above it, depicting the artists of the colony running through the village. They are all caricatured, gently teased by how they are identifiable through their trademark idiosyncrasies – Childe Hassam, renowned for his hijinx, is shown painting shirtless, to which Matilda Brown, the only female painter who was considered truly a part of the colony, reacts by throwing her hands in the air in coy exasperation. Walter Griffin is shown riding a horse he boasted about buying for $4 as a model. This almost nine foot long frieze aptly illustrates the benign camaraderie that artists found at the colony, and gives a sense of the particular draw of the place.
The ‘inmates’ as one of the longest serving members, Frank Bicknell, called them came from different backgrounds and for different reasons – but they were never short of material. Most were fond of the ‘en plein air’ painting tradition, taking their paints and easels around Lyme in search of good scenes to paint. Willard Metcalf painted the gardens at dusk, William Henry Howe famously liked to paint cows, and Frank Vincent DuMond taught Summer schools, which were credited with peppering the local hillocks with art students to such an extent that no one could find any peace and quiet.
Florence Griswold described herself as the “keeper” of the art colony. She never married or had any children, instead choosing to surround herself with her cluster of adopted painters, who she charmed with her warmth, acting as their friend, muse and patron all at once. She encouraged and facilitated their work, and in return they refurbished her house, upholstered and scribbled on her furniture, and brought an ever-evolving artistic spirit to Lyme. Florence Griswold was proud of the milieu she had created in the boardinghouse and in the town, saying; “At first the artists adopted Lyme, then Lyme adopted the artists, and now, today, Lyme and art are synonymous.”
Inspired by The Night-Blooming Cereus flower, artist William Farr wanted to create something out of the ordinary.
Cereus nights - a new weekly flower box delivery service - is just that.
Completely different from other weekly flower boxes, This is no ordinary flower box - Cereus Nights offers an eclectic mix of rare and exotic blooms sourced directly and handpicked to create something completely individual.
Completely flexible, Cereus can be used as a regular service, one-off dinner or for a special occasion. The box arrives on a Thursday bursting with rare and exotic stems flowers beautifully packaged and ready to go.
Then all you need is to unleash your creativity with this extraordinary palette of flowers and foliage !
Priced at £35 - click here to see whats on offer Cereus nights
The Festival of Scent
3rd-5th of September 2021
Keyneston Mill and Parterre Fragrances are hosting A Festival of Scent. ( click link for programme) A celebration of all things fragrant, the festival presents a range of immersive scent experiences, including interactive exhibition spaces, free mini workshops and scented garden tours.
In the evenings, there will be live Parisian Jazz, thematic outdoor cinema and excellent French food.
The Festival will explore diverse themes related to scent, spanning the worlds of fashion, art, perfume, wellness and gardens.
Free workshops and demonstrations had throughout the day include:
The Essence of Plants - Distillery tour
The Healing Power of Plants - Aromatherapy
Scented Garden Tours
Exploring Scent & Wellness
A Scent for September - Blending Workshop
Create Your Own Diffuser
Yoga in the River Meadow
Create a Wild Scented Bouquet
Discover Botanical Cocktails - with Fordington Gin
EXHIBITIONS:
Nature, Art and Perfume - A Scent Exhibition including the History of Perfume and the Story of Parterre and Keyneston Mill
The exhibition explores the relationship between art, nature and perfume and how this triangle inspires the creation of perfume.
SCENTED SPACES - IMMERSIVE EXPERIENCES
Intended to expand the experience of scent, these rooms include:
THE FOURTH DIMENSIONAL FILM, where visitors are immersed in a scene from a well-known film, accentuated by scent.
THE GARDEN OF EDEN - An artistic interpretation of the idyllic garden.
THE HOUR OF DUSK AND GOLD Parterre Fragrances recreate the inspiration behind one of their perfumes.
PETRA DUFKOVA EXHIBITION Petra Dufkova’s illustrations focus on beauty, interlinked with flowers and fragrances - she has drawn for many luxury brands including Hermes, Vanity Fair and the Ministry of Sound.
THE SCENT BAR
Here visitors will be able to sample different natural oils used in fragrances, the Parterre perfumes drinks and some of the plants that are the key botanical ingredients.
FOOD WITH A FRAGRANT TWIST
There will be a range of food and drinks on offer, with lunches available in the Scented Botanist (by reservation only - but there are takeaways), and ice cream and coffees available from the GEO-DOME outlet.
To compliment the Day Festival there will be an event each evening :
Parisian Jazz Evenings (3rd and 4th) Live Music, wine, and films.
Day Tickets (4th/5th September) £18, Jazz evenings (3/4th September) £75
Winners have been announced for the Wellcome Photography Prize 2021.
They were selected from 90 shortlisted images from 15 countries, with each image or series relating to one of the six categories: Managing Mental Health single image and series, Fighting Infections single image and series, and Health in a Heating World single image and series.
Jameisha Prescod won the single image prize for Managing Mental Health with her photograph Untangling.
Yoppy Pieter won the series image prize for Fighting Infections with his series Trans Woman: Between Colour and Voice
The panel of judges, composed of experts from across the fields of photography, medicine and science, also chose finalists for each category from a shortlist of 90 photos by 31 professional, amateur and student photographers from 15 countries.
The other category finalists, who each receive £1,000, are:
The Big Fish by Morteza Niknahad, Iran from the Managing Mental Health (series) category. Inspired by a local Iranian myth, Niknahad reimagined his mother’s pervasive depression as a fish-like monster inside of or adjacent to her, an ever-present nemesis.
The Time of Coronavirus by Aly Song, China from the Fighting Infections (single image) category was taken in Wuhan, China, where the pandemic first started. Song’s image shows volunteers from the Blue Sky Rescue Team, the largest humanitarian NGO in China, disinfecting the Qintai Grand Theatre. “I want to thank everyone who has fought against the pandemic and is saving lives. From professional staff to volunteers, the past year has been difficult. It is one of the most challenging times in the history of mankind. Let us continue to stand together.”
Climate Cost by Zakir Hossain Chowdhury, Bangladesh from the Health in a Heating World (single image) category depicts a man, Haibur, salvaging belongings from the wreck of his house, three months after Cyclone Amphan hit Bangladesh. He remains homeless like many others, sheltering where he can. He has nowhere to cook, nowhere to grow crops, and medical treatment is hard to come by. Hossain explained that “With my photo I want to share a message of how people suffer from global warming, and that we should strengthen the global response to reduce climate change, and achieve sustainable development and poverty eradication.”
An Elegy for the Death of Hamun by Hashem Shakeri, Iran from the Health in a Heating World (series) category shows the Sistan and Baluchestan province in Iran. The once-fertile region is now turning into a desert, bringing drought, hunger, unemployment and mass emigration. These haunting images are a prime example of the rapid effects of climate change.
The Health in a Heating World category included the Diving Maldives series, by Edoardo Delille and Giulia Piermartiri, who projected photographs of divers onto local buildings to illustrate the future dangers that Maafushi, in the low-lying Maldives. As sea-levels rise, the Maldives are predicted to be underwater by the end of the century. The government there are working on solutions like sea-barriers and promoting sustainable living.
Burnt Memory: Archaeology from a Climate Emergency was another shortlisted series, composed of nine images of a burnt camera from the home of Kenny and Connie Waranius. Gideon Mendel worked with Jonathan Pierredon to create tintype photos of damaged objects found in the remains of people’s homes destroyed in the Carr wildfire in California in 2018. It was one of the most devastating wildfires the state had ever seen, spreading rapidly across dry lands, propelled by a tornado. It forced many people to evacuate their homes, and smoke spread across five states. Rising temperatures and extreme weather make fires like this an increasing threat.
The winners were selected by Jeremy Farrar, Director of Wellcome, and a panel of eight judges:
Dr Dixon Chibanda, Associate Professor at the University of Zimbabwe Clinical Research Centre, and Director of the African Mental Health Research Initiative
Johannah Churchill RGN, Photographer and Primary Care Nurse
Joycelyn Longdon, MRes and PhD at the University of Cambridge and Founder of ClimateInColour
Dr John Nkengasong, Director of the Africa Centres for Disease Control and Prevention
Azu Nwagbogu, Founder and Director of African Artists' Foundation and LagosPhoto Festival
Dr Charles Ogilvie, Strategy Director of COP26 and multimedia artist
Brett Rogers OBE, Director of The Photographers' Gallery
Dr Kateřina Šrahůlková, Psychologist and Mental Health Specialist with Médecins sans Frontières
Image credit: Zakir Hossain Chowdhury / Wellcome Photography Prize 2021
Image licence: Attribution, Non-Commercial, No Derivative Works CC BY-NC-ND
Image credit: Zakir Hossain Chowdhury / Wellcome Photography Prize 2021
Image licence: Attribution, Non-Commercial, No Derivative Works CC BY-NC-ND
Image credit: Michael Snyder / Wellcome Photography Prize 2021
Image licence: All Rights Reserved
Image credit: Hashem Shakeri / Wellcome Photography Prize 2021
Image licence: Attribution, Non-Commercial CC BY-NC
Image credit: Hashem Shakeri / Wellcome Photography Prize 2021
Image licence: Attribution, Non-Commercial CC BY-NC
Image credit: Edoardo Delille and Giulia Piermartiri / Wellcome Photography Prize 2021
Image licence: Attribution, Non-Commercial, No Derivative Works CC BY-NC-ND
Hemp houses? High time….
Once used for making the sails for boats, rope, cloth and paper, hemp is an extremely versatile material once looked on as a ‘wonder crop’, but the plant’s presence in our lives and its industrial use have been hampered by its association with narcotics. If this can be set aside, however, hemp has a lot of potential - it is fast-growing, and “ better than commercial forestry at sequestering carbon – plus its long tap roots help to regenerate the soil” according to Paloma Gormley, head of Practice Architecture. Alternatives to plastic can be made from hemp (it is 60-70 percent cellulose, and is already being used in biodegradable plastics and even in some car manufacture), and it can also be used to make building materials.
Steve Baron, a film and TV producer and director, was interested in the plant’s properties and together with his business partner Fawnda Denham, bought Margent Farm in Cambridgeshire where they now grow hemp, after acquiring a licence and being okayed by the police. Margent Farm operates entirely off-grid - the buildings are heated by a sustainable biomass boiler and powered by a domestic wind turbine and a choice array of solar panels.
The first year’s hemp harvest in 2017 yielded more than enough fibre to build the farmhouse from scratch, and so Margent Farm is now home to Flat House, constructed entirely from hemp-based products. It was was built in collaboration with Practice Architecture, who designed it. Practice have been working with hemp for some time but saw the project as a chance for further experimentation. Flat House is built using the husk of a steel-framed barn, within which a new structure has been made of prefabricated timber-framed cassettes that are filled with a mulch of hemp, lime and water known as hempcrete. These are built into thick, insulating walls that also prop up the building. The exterior is covered in hemp-fibre tiles, made of fibres from the outer coating of hemp stalks combined with a sugar-based resin taken from agricultural waste. The building is much more environmentally friendly than a concrete or timber equivalent, and also potentially more durable, as the materials are breathable so resist damp and mould, as well as being more interesting to look at than cement.
Margent Farm will be hosting a lunch series throughout next month with partners SSAW collective, a network of florists, chefs and growers working together to push for positive ecological change in the food, flower and farming industries. The kitchen will be run by Lulu Cox, former sous chef at Rochelle Canteen, and there will be botanical set design to reflect the peak time of harvest in the British growing season by florists Jess Blume and Wetherly. The feast will be hosted in the grounds of Margent Farm on the 5th and 6th of August. There will be an inventive vegetarian menu created using produce grown by suppliers chosen specifically for their pragmatic connection to working with the land and the peak seasonality of the produce that they offer. Hemp will also be weaved in as an ingredient. 40 guests per sitting will be invited to what will be a beautiful and educational outdoor dining experience.
As well as enjoying an excellent lunch on site, guests will explore the hemp farm, and learn about the wonder crop from guest speakers such as Tim Williams and Dr Darshil Shah, Lecturer and Assistant Professor in Materials at Cambridge university and a senior researcher at the Centre for Natural Material Innovation. Throughout the day topics intrinsic to the process and understanding of hemp farming will be explored, as well as the breadth of uses and benefits of the crop. The experience will be a thorough exploration of the potential of hemp, it’s capacity and versatility as a material, a food and a medicine, intriguing for anybody interested in ecologically-minded practices, progress towards more sustainable living and innovation in agriculture, architecture, fashion and design.
Tickets are on sale from the SSAW collective online shop https://www.ssawcollective.com/shop.
MARS IS A GARDENER
As a feature in the latest issue of Rakesprogress reveals, Napoleon was a gardener. Tom Loxley talks to the author of the piece, historian Ruth Scurr, about the man who built gardens as well as empires…
Before he began making war and building empires, Napoleon Bonaparte was developing another obsession that stayed with him until the day he died: a love of nature. Gardens, in particular, punctuated his life. From the vegetable plot he tended at military school, to his family’s mulberry nursery on Corsica, to the botanical gardens of revolutionary Paris, to the walled garden of the Hougoumount farmhouse where he met his Waterloo, to his last garden, built in exile on the windswept rocky outcrop of St Helena, Napoleon was never more at home than when surrounded by plants. Historian Ruth Scurr’s new biography, Napoleon: a life in gardens and shadows – published earlier this summer to celebrate 200 years since Napoleon’s birth – tells his story afresh. Here, in conversation with rakesprogress, she reveals what inspired her to write about this hidden side of Napoleon Bonaparte, a man who built gardens as well as empires, who sowed seeds as well as war across Europe and beyond. And who once seemingly grafted an ash onto an elm – a tree that lives to this day…
I’m assuming the idea to tell Napoleon’s story through gardens came to you because you love gardening?
Yes, I absolutely do. I don’t know if this is a common story, but it suddenly entered my life when I was in my late 30s. I bought a little terraced house, and I knew it had a garden, and was pleased about that, but I was completely unconnected to the garden for the first 18 months I lived there. Then, suddenly, I started gardening, and learning. I made a lot of friends through that and now we exchange plants, and if we’re going to meet up, it’s, “Well, should we go to the garden centre or nursery?” Sorry, it makes me sound really old.
No, no, this is a common story. What’s interesting, I think, is once you start talking to people about gardens, you start to discover so much more – and not just about the plants…
Absolutely. Neither of my parents gardened at all when we were growing up, but both my grandmothers had been quite serious gardeners. They’d both grown fruit and veg, and known a lot about plants. But it seemed like that had skipped a generation. My grandmother was married to a farmer in Albrighton - they had the farm next to David Austin, the rose grower, and his farm was going to wrack and ruin because he was spending all his time with his roses. So they rented his land. When my grandmother died, we took her ashes back to Albrighton, and I bought my first two roses.
How many roses have you got now?
God, the last time I counted, it was getting on for 20. I’m really, really into them. I’ve got the Iceberg and The Generous Gardener, the climbers and things, but then I’m also into to the single flowering, the Gallica roses. Because even though they’re only once-flowering, they are just such a show when they’re doing it. I’ve got the Tuscany rose and the Officinalis, the very sort of bright pink one. They’re in bloom at the moment. And I also love Boule de Neige. I have, of course, the Albrighton Rambler. It’s a real love affair for me.
So, you’re a historian with a gardening habit. When you discovered that Napoleon had a garden at school, did you think, “Hang on a minute, there’s something here”?
I knew I wanted to write about Napoleon, and I wanted to write about him in a way that included a lot of the people around him who don’t normally make it into the story. I didn’t want to just be doing Napoleon and his generals, I wanted a way to situate his life in amongst the other lives that he touched in a much broader way than you tend to find in those more conventional biographies. “Why am I so drawn to writing about him?”, I thought. I realised it was this image of him at the end of his life, when he’d lost everything, having that garden on St Helena. That was what was really, really haunting and had stuck in my mind. So I went back to that image of him gardening, and I started to notice, “Hang on a minute, he had that garden at school, and the Botanical Garden in Paris was really important to him.” And then there was Malmaison, where his wife Josephine lived. I thought, “Well, this is all very well, but what is gonna happen about Waterloo?” I’ve got to include Waterloo. I can’t write a biography on Napoleon with no Waterloo! Then, miraculously, I found that the walled garden was at the centre of the battle.
We’re not history buffs, but we love nature, and like to read stories about people who have connected with the natural world, especially surprising stories. And I was really surprised to read that Napoleon had gardened all his life.
I’m so pleased to focus on the gardening side, because certainly I hoped that it wouldn’t just be the usual Napoleon history buffs that we’re going to be interested in this. Because I do think it’s a story about all the different things that gardens can mean across a particular lifetime.
You said that nature was a big deal in the late 18th century when Napoleon was starting out on his career and you write that at his French military school all the cadets were given a patch to garden. Was that unusual?
I think the connecting link between those things is science. All his life, he was very interested in scientific discovery, and that included the botanists and the biologists, the chemists, all the people who are trying to understand the natural world in a manner free from the old religious constraints on understanding. He, in that sense, is absolutely a man of his time. Right before he went into exile, he suddenly has this idea that, “Okay, well, that political career seems to be over, but I would have liked to have been a scientist, so perhaps now I can start making some discoveries.”
And this veneration of nature and science meant that after the revolution the French even went so far as to rip up the calendar and replace it with a revolutionary calendar and name the year again, after the seasons.
Absolutely. I love that calendar. You can follow it on Twitter … it’s like, “Today in the revolutionary calendar, we’re celebrating the pitchfork.” Or, “Today, in the revolutionary calendar, we’re celebrating irises.” All the imagery for that calendar was drawn from nature, and that was exactly what the revolution was trying to do, to say: “Listen, we used to have a calendar that had all these saints’ days, it was dominated by the church and by religion, but we’ve had the revolution. Let’s have a new calendar, let’s start again. And that’s going to be based on the natural world.”
So when Napoleon seizes power in the Coup of 18 Brumaire, that’s the 18th day in the month of the mists, isn’t it?
Absolutely. All the dates in his life, for that period of his rise to power, they are given in my book in both the revolutionary and the Gregorian calendar. Although Napoleon eventually went back to the old calendar because the new one was extremely complex. It was very difficult for people to adapt to, as beautiful and engaging as it is - practically, it was difficult.
When you think of Napoleon and his approach to gardens, and obviously you talk about specific gardens throughout his life, do you think his instincts were to conquer nature? That in reality he simply wanted to control it?
Yes, I do. I think he favoured, aesthetically, the traditional French topiary, straight lines, avenues, order imposed on nature. His first wife, Josephine, was a very keen plantswoman, and part of her identity in recovering from the trauma of the terror was to create this beautiful garden, but she wanted it in the English style; picturesque, with vistas and winding paths, so that you look at it like a landscape rather than this very orderly, rigid imposition of a pattern. They clashed in that regard.
Did she get her way in much else?
She had a very important and real relationship with him. And the respect in which she finally did not get her way was that she couldn’t have another child. She’d had two children with her previous husband, who had been executed during the revolution, but she couldn’t conceive a child with Napoleon. He started to believe that this was absolutely necessary to secure the future of France; he wanted to reintroduce a hereditary line to secure what would happen after his death. And so people were cruel and bitter about that, saying, “her garden is so fertile, but she herself is infertile.” She was distressed to be cast aside, but she and Napoleon remained friends.
But initially, theirs was a hot romance, wasn’t it? And flowers were the heart of it. Violets.
That’s right. Violets recur throughout the book. She had the violets on their wedding day, which was very quick, just before he was about to go off again with the army, then violets remain her favourite flower, and she asks that he always give her violets on their wedding anniversary. The violet becomes the symbol of the movement to bring him back from his first exile on Elba. Lots of the associated imagery and visual codes involve the violet, a perennial - it will come back in the spring.
People forget that Napoleon came from Corsica. Was he really a country boy?
Yes, I think so. He loved to walk or ride in the countryside. There are various stories of him galloping off on his own at certain points, when he wanted to think about something or just be immersed in the natural surroundings. In Corsica, as a young man he struggled to establish a mulberry nursery, which was associated with his family’s bankruptcy, the death of his father, and the injustice of the French old regime, with the monarchy and the government demanding their loan back. He starts off as a real Corsican nationalist, leading the resistance to France, but then decides he’s going to become part of the revolution, and goes back to France. But he misses Corsica terribly, he misses the scenery, the plants, and even the smell. When he was exiled to Elba, one of the first things he does is start saying, “Well, okay, there’s a bit of a downsize going on here… But never mind, we can still make a great garden.” He starts importing citrus trees, and he chooses to import mulberry trees, and that’s very interesting. Because the mulberry, of all trees, ought to have had bad associations for him.
Do you think someone of his standing – a general, even if he was a deposed emperor – would actually have got his hands dirty and worked the soil? Or would he have been standing there directing other people?
That’s true when it comes to the gardens constructed when was at the height of his power, at Malmaison, and Fontainebleau and elsewhere. Even on Elba, where he was first sent in exile, he would no doubt have been directing the gardeners. I imagine he’d pass through the garden and say: “This needs watering. Can somebody get on and do it?” But after his final defeat at Waterloo and his exile to St Helena, he does have the time to get involved with the physical contribution to making a garden, precisely because his doctor has recommended it. He had become very out of shape and his doctor saw gardening as a way he could get fit. Initially he refused to take exercise because he hated being followed around by the British guards, and he hated being “spied on”, as he saw it. But when his doctor has an inspired suggestion and says, “Well, okay, you can exercise in your own garden.” He says, “Yes, you’re right. That’s what we’re going to do.”
Do you think he would have known how to graft a mulberry tree?
I did look into this, and I do think he would have known. Whether he did it or not is another question. There’s this magical tree on Île d'Aix, which is the last place he was on French soil before he left for St Helena in 1815. After Waterloo, he fled to Rochefort, the port, and then he had a few days on Île d'Aix trying to work out what to do. And he was there when he surrendered to the British. And that was basically where he left French soil forever. But there’s a tree at the house that he stayed in, which is now a museum, with a notice by it saying that Napoleon was a competent enough gardener to make this complicated and unusual graft. He’s grafted, or allegedly has grafted, ash on to elm. You can see the graft; it’s very, very old.
We think of Napoleon as someone who killed a lot of people. You could call him a mass murderer. But here he is, nurturing nature – giving new life to a tree? That’s an odd disconnect isn’t it?
Yes, that’s right. Historians disagree about how many people died, whether or not all of the battles, or some of the battles, or most of the battles were his fault. Was he someone who inherited wars from the revolution? Other European powers certainly started wars with him, but there is no question that he was at the heart, at the very, very heart, of an astonishing amount of bloodshed. As you say, it’s the starkest of possible contrasts between that, and someone who would be interested in a grafting, and bringing life to, those sticks and nurturing them.
Is that tree all that remains of his gardening legacy?
All the gardens that he created have gone really. There have been heroic efforts on St Helena to restore his garden: it’s got the sunken paths, and a very elaborate bird cage that was built for him by the Chinese labourers who worked with him on his garden on St Helena. So there are little hints and remnants of that garden. But St Helena is a very hostile gardening environment; the altitude is very high, it is subject to heavy, dense mists coming across the south Atlantic. It would be very poignant if they managed to restore that garden. A museum holds the birdcage, which was given as a present to his family when they went to St Helena to bring Napoleon’s remains back to Paris, and they allowed me to include the photograph in my book. That’s the final sense of his actual, physical gardening.
But if we wanted to see a tree that Napoleon had very possibly grafted, we should head to the Ile de Aix?
Yes. My children and I often would go to La Rochelle for a holiday, and you can get a boat across to this island. When I realised that was the last place he’d been on French soil, I wanted to go, and then that’s when I discovered it. Whether or not he himself grafted it, I think it’s a wonderful thing to believe.
Ruth Scurr’s new biography, Napoleon: a life in gardens and shadows is published by Penguin and available from here
You can read Ruth Scurr’s feature in Rakesprogress Issue 13
Thyme Exhibition of Pressed Botanicals by JamJar Flowers,
15th of June to 12th of September 2021
Thyme, Southrop Manor Estate
An exhibition of intricate pressed botanicals by JamJar Flowers, inspired by a love of wild spaces and a passion for conservation, is being held throughout the ‘meadow season’ in the Tithe Barn at Thyme, the historic Cotswold manor and farm. The exhibition will reflect and celebrate the surrounding water meadows and grasslands.
JamJar Flowers is a creative studio designing floral installations and bespoke pieces. They are renowned for their ‘high-wire’ floristry installations and bespoke pressed botanicals, and have created displays for Sketch, Mulberry and many other brands.
We are huge fans at rakesprogress of their practice of pressing botanicals, from wild grasses to garden flowers. They transform the pressed specimens into beautiful works of art from lightboxes to beautiful botanical wallpaper.
They launched their online shop, JamJar edit, following the success of their previous pressed flower exhibitions. The shop specialises in pressed botanical art pieces and objects inspired by nature.
Thyme is a collection of restored 17th century houses, farm buildings and cottages - a miniature village of sorts, Thyme comprises also of a restaurant and bar, boutiques, a cookery school, farm, kitchen gardens, orchards, water meadows, and the tithe barn, the site of this exhibition among other events.
Caryn Hibbert, Creative Director and Founder of Thyme, and Melissa Richardson and Amy Fielding, Co-Directors of JamJar Flowers, have teamed up to create this incredible exhibition of botanical installations to celebrate the beauty of Thyme’s surroundings. The exhibition, the first to be held at Thyme, includes a series of large-scale installations alongside JamJar’s signature flower pressings. The exhibition will take place in the Tithe Barn, which was restored by Hibbert and her father, the physicist Michael Bertioli – high ceilings and beautiful old wooden beams make for a lovely background for the botanical pieces. There is also a series of ‘Summer Happenings’ running alongside the exhibition at Thyme, including conservation talks, guided meadow walks, pressed flower workshops, botanical painting and flower arranging. The restaurant will also be serving botanically inspired dishes and cocktails.
JamJar and Thyme will also be collaborating in the upcoming RHS Chelsea Flower Show (21st – 26th of September). Their design is called ‘The Nature of Thyme’, and will be at the Bullring Gate. The design for the gate is inspired by migratory birds who traverse continents to spend their summers in the meadows at Thyme, as well as insects and pollinators - all of which are essential to the future of the ecosystem. To convey the layered activity of wildlife in the meadows at Thyme, the Gate will be decorated with nectar-heavy flowers and delicate bug-hotels, and vines will climb across the top of the columns, providing nesting places for birds. The Grand Pavilion will be flanked by wild flower meadows, and sculptures of birds and insects will accompany and complement the display.
https://www.thyme.co.uk/
Ffern is a small batch, artisan perfume maker based in Somerset, England. They sell online at www.ffern.co.
The idea is simple: They keep a small list of clients (the ledger), and they make their perfume exclusively for these clients. Nobody else.
To mark the summer solstice and the launch of Ffern’s latest release, they commissioned the visual artist Nicola Yeoman to create a sculpture from natural materials. The result is an 8 foot high wooden structure, crowned with an orb made from hay - an ingredient they have used in Summer 21 for the first time. Into the hay, Nicola wove ribbons, flowers and feathers. On a summer evening in early June they set it alight. This short film captures the making and the burning.
Nicola Yeoman is a visual artist and set designer. Her first public art installation Home was shown at the London Design Festival in 2010. Since then her works have appeared on the covers of various publications, including New York Times, Wallpaper* and Vogue. She also created the installation for Jay Z’s iconic Blueprint 3 album cover. Nicola often uses natural or found objects in her works - shedding light on our relationship with material and form.
Nicola Yeoman “The work celebrates the ancient art of marking the summer solstice. The intention was for it to be pagan and traditional in feel, but it became a very personal and cathartic experience, involving items which took me a long time to gather and collect.
The structure of the orb itself is made from sticks collected from a nearby wood - I only wanted those that were covered in lichen, signifying that they were from an area of cleaner air. Through the sticks I wove hay, straw and wheat, scavenged from the farm. Onto this I layered dried flowers which I had saved over the past year - representing both happy and bleaker times - as well as fresh flowers, which I had grown from seed, and many feathers, which I had collected over the years. The ritual act of burning the sculpture became a way of letting go…”
Bedstraw and Madder are among the growing number of conscientious clothing companies who put as much emphasis on the process that goes into making their clothes as on the products themselves.
Their mission is to create ‘uncompromising’ underwear, beneficial for the wearer, for the environment and for the people involved in each step of the making process. Their co-founder, Primrose Matheson, answered a few of our questions about the thinking behind the brand’s range of no-nonsense knickers …..
When considering launching a sustainable, gentle clothing company, there were many avenues you could have gone down. What made you choose to make underwear, and would you ever branch out into producing other garments?
We started with underwear because this is your most intimate item of clothing, the clothing you spend the whole day in with it touching your skin.
The fashion industry is currently a dirty business. It is the second largest polluting industry after fossil fuels. 20% of all water pollution is caused by the chemicals used in processing textiles. Not only are those chemicals bad for the environment, they are also detrimental to our health. We were conscious of the fact that our skin is one of the largest organs - and it absorbs what it touches. We wanted to create clean, healthy clothing with benefits. We’re applying the same philosophy we have embraced in our move towards organic food, to our clothing.
Tell us a little bit about the name Bedstraw and Madder.
Bedstraw and Madder are both plants used for natural dyeing. Bedstraw comes from the plant Lady’s Bedstraw whose roots we use to produce a yellow dye. Madder likewise is a plant whose roots are used to produce reds and pinks. Both have natural anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory qualities, making them beneficial for our skin.
How do you settle on a design – what sort of research goes into thinking about how to make pretty and ethically produced pants?
Our first design was about ticking all our green credentials. Properly. No greenwashing - whilst creating something beautiful and affordable that our customers would love. It took us two years of [research and development] to cultivate the partnerships and source the materials we needed to do it.
Our challenge was to meet industry colourfast standards with natural dyes, which we achieved whilst producing chemical-free knickers that were biodegradable and made with the most ethical material possible.
Can you briefly walk us through the process of producing each pair of knickers – from where the cotton comes from, to which plants are used for dyeing?
The knickers we have launched with are called our Farm 2 Fibre Range. We wanted to use the most ethical material we could find. This was unbleached Regenerative Organic cotton. It goes way beyond organic - through regernative farming practises each cotton plant helps reverse climate change by sequestrating carbon back into the soil from the atmosphere. We work with partners in India to do this, leasing the land ourselves and working directly with the communities.
Any white clothing you see goes through a bleaching process. We have eliminated this process, preferring the natural ecru state of the organic cotton. We use a range of plants for dyeing. After our first cotton harvest we planted Indigo as a cover crop. This works symbiotically with the bacteria in the soil to fix nitrogen back nourishing the soil ahead of being replanted. Indigo produces a beautiful blue colour. We also use plants like Tacoma in our Summer Breeze knickers, which gives a beautiful yellow, and Madder for pinks. Vembadam was used in our Lilac Rose knickers. Most of these plants are native to India.
So Bedstraw and Madder underwear is promoting regenerative agricultural systems, sequestering carbon, saving water, reducing the amount of chemicals that enter the water cycle - can you elaborate a little on how it’s doing so?
We started the regenerative cotton project in 2019 with our partner in India where our natural dyeing is done. He had been visualising a fibreshed system (a community of textile professionals who aspire to use materials grown regeneratively within their region and also a geographical landscape that defines and gives boundaries to a natural textile resource base) there for 3 years and we were keen to get involved. He was working with the local community, renting land to grow the organic cotton to then weave and dye with his community of traditional weavers there. The importance environmentally is that through the use of cover crops, animal grazing and zero pesticide use, soil quality has improved. This naturally acts as a carbon sink, increases biodiversity and helps clean up our water cycles that had previously been contaminated with heavy pesticides.
Socially, it provides a strong and viable livelihood for the community on the ground and continues to pass on ancient traditions and wisdom to the next generation. Although cotton is known as a thirsty crop, our goal was to have our cotton rain-fed as much as possible, which was achieved through the installation of irrigation systems. Because we use organic plant dyes, any water used in the dyeing process can be recirculated and returned to the soil rather than flushed away. Most importantly, growing our own cotton gives us full traceability in our supply chain, which not many brands have. Without full transparency you can’t accurately measure the impact what you are doing has over time.
As for the wear-ability of Bedstraw and Madder pants – do they last longer than average synthetic underwear - and are they comfy?
Our knickers are made from cotton which is a hard-wearing material, and when you wash them you can rest assured you won’t be creating micro plastics for our oceans like you do with synthetics. Cotton also allows your skin to breathe, which is much healthier and more hygienic. Studies with synthetic underwear show a link to infertility and a predisposition to issues such as thrush. When we did our research comfort was key so every pair of B + M knickers are guaranteed for comfort. We have different styles to choose from launching over the next few months - from briefs, to Brazilians, to thongs…Definitely something for everyone.
Buy a pair online via the website @ www.bedstrawandmadder.com
B & M knickers are delivered in carbon positive packaging. The first limited edition is available to order.
ANOTHER WORLD IS POSSIBLE
Photographer Gavan Goulder has spent the last year taking portraits of the protestors behind No Going Back Sundays
No Going Back Sundays is a protest group based in St.Ives (encompassing Carbis Bay). For most Sundays during the last year, between 10am and 11am, they have joined in silent protest on “The Island” in St.Ives.
“On Sunday May 10th 2020, as the clock struck ten in the morning, seven people local to St. Ives and Carbis, walked separately to the cliff. Each of us wore a face-mask and found a place to stand without speaking. Some of the paint on our signs was still wet. And then we did something that seemed quite transgressive in this busy world where time has to be filled with ‘useful’ activity. We stopped doing anything. People standing motionless on the cliffs, silently holding signs which call for justice for people and the planet. Just stood there, holding our signs …for an hour. And it felt liberating and unexpectedly profound. We hadn’t anticipated that an hour of stillness could feel so powerful.”
“Making and holding a sign seems such an insignificant action in the midst of a global pandemic. But it turns out it’s a powerful thing to do. It’s about reclaiming issues that seem way out of the control of individuals. We are showing that we care enough about something to stand up and be counted. Even if there is no one looking” (Senara Wilson Hodges)
“The next Sunday there were eight of us and we were joined by people all over the UK. It seemed that many of us were feeling the same need to engage. We began to realise that this act of making and holding a sign was a way of expressing solidarity and better understanding the things we cared about. In St. Ives the space we carved out on those Sundays became the obvious place to respond to world events. On the 7th June, 50 people from our small town, came to the Island to show solidarity with Black Lives Matter. In Hayle on the other side of St. Ives Bay, our friends took the knee in the sea off Gwithian Beach.
As lockdown restrictions were lifted, visitors flooded to our town and they joined locals in reacting to our Sunday protest. Many were moved, others were angry and dismissive. One man walked his dog past us every Sunday and refused to look at us or acknowledge our presence - not even once, during the dozens of Sundays we encountered each other. Some people were moved to tears. “
These images document some of the people behind these protests sending simple but stark messages to highlight issues that are simply not going away - they range from environmental issues to second homes, to tackling poverty and suicide.
Tomorrow sees the G7 summit start in Cornwall. ( 11th-13th June)
The G7, also known as the Group of Seven, is an international organisation made up of the world's seven largest advanced economies: Germany, Italy, Canada, France, Japan, the United Kingdom and the United States.
The member country holding the G7 presidency, currently the UK, is responsible for organising and hosting the year's annual summit. Each member nation takes over the presidency for a year on a rolling basis.
Since 1975, representatives from the seven nations have met at least annually to discuss economic policies and other issues of global importance. This means US President Joe Biden, German Chancellor Angela Merkel, Japanese Prime Minister Yoshihide Suga, Italian Prime Minister Mario Draghi, Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau, French President Emmanuel Macron and UK Prime Minister Boris Johnson will be congregating in the southwest of England. Other representatives from non-member countries that have been invited as guests include Australian Prime Minister Scott Morrison, South Korean President Moon Jae-in, South African President Cyril Ramaphosa and Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi.
Cornwall is seen as a driver of the UK's 'green revolution' with projects like The Eden projects new planned geothermal project in partnership with Cornwall-based EGS Energy, Ecotricity has signed a deal with Geothermal Engineering Limited (GEL), which has been drilling for hot rocks at its test plant in United Downs, near Redruth and will be the country's first geothermal power plant and Cornish Lithium - a lithium extraction site situated in the region. But all of this “green” regeneration and the reputation of Cornwall as a surfers paradise and holiday destination hides the regional facts .
“This last winter lockdown has been especially tough for St. Ives. We are a microcosm of the issues facing communities all over the world. The beauty of our town hides shameful pockets of child poverty and deprivation. We see growing inequality, families going hungry, lack of services, low paid work and excessive development. We see pollution of our rivers and seas and weather patterns changing as global heating accelerates.”
The Sunday cliff where the protestors meet overlook the luxury Carbis Bay Hotel where world leaders stay and meet.
“Should you wish to stay in one of the hotel’s luxury beach lodges, it will set you back £17,000 for a week. An irony when the average weekly wages in Cornwall are only £537. “
“Our message is linked to Climate Justice and we see how this is connected to justice in many areas - refugee justice, radial justice, disability justice, justice for local wildlife, indigenous justice.”
These protestors will be there again this Sunday 13th to highlight the fact that the issues linked to the G7 meeting were there long before G7 came to town
“We will make the familiar walk to the ‘The Island’ and we will silently hold our signs calling for justice. We will be joined by people in Hayle on the other side of the St. Ives Bay and by others all over the UK and beyond. And when the G7 circus disappears, we will still be here.”
CREDITS: Portraits from top left to bottom right : Senara (one of the people that started NGBS): Rob, Bill, Beresford, Rupert, Sara, Camilla, Annie, Farrah, Lottie, Rick
link to You-tube to
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJNV1-Y8dy4&ab_channel=SenaraONTHEBEACH
click on link below to the NGBS Instagram page
Facebook / Instagram: No Going Back Sundays - Another World is Possible.
Kevin Mackintosh is a regular contributor to rakesprogress magazine producing some of the most memorable covers and photo shoots for the magazine.
HERO is a series created over Five years in locations across Africa. His Inspiration comes from the work of great African photographers such as Sidebe, Seydou Keita and Sory Sanle - using props and streetwear mixed with tribal and the traditional to create hyper real portraits that mix both studio lighting with landscape.
Mackintosh collaborates with set designer Daryl McGregor to create these distinct and timeless images - a testament to their South African heritage.
See his work on show at
Also Known as Africa - art and design ~Fair
21-23rd October Carreau Du Temple, Paris
Follow the Light: A Year in Epping Forest and Hollow Ponds is a photo series documenting and exploring the changing of the seasons in the ancient woodland and surrounding lakes during the unparalleled year of 2020.
Artist Caro Jones started documenting the changing landscapes of Epping forest in the Spring, during the first of the 2020 lockdowns and continued with the changing seasons. The results can be seen at her exhibition at Orford house from 26th July to 26th September 2021
Jones found serenity in the woods and paths on her daily walks, a welcome contrast to the chaos of the outside world ; heading off with camera in hand to take pictures of the woodland and the nearby fields shocked with gorse.
The stillness of this special time is felt in the perfect reflections of the water, whilst trees stand proud in a sea of gorse - the bare trees offset by the bright yellow - you can almost smell the tell-tale coconut scent. In the Summer the forest bursts with life and takes on a softer, verdant character, whilst winter reveals the bare bones. The resulting set of photos reveal the reassuring constant of natural seasonal flux in a time of uncertainty and the sheer beauty of the natural cycle of renewal, rebirth, and reawakening.
The photographs are displayed at Orford House, a grade II listed building in the centre of Wathamstow Village, among the oldest of the historic buildings in the area. It was one of the many grand neo-Classical villas built by affluent merchants in the 17th to 19th centuries and becomes a perfect backdrop for this exhibition.
Free public viewings are on Tuesday to Thursday evenings from 5pm to 9pm and Sunday afternoons from 12pm to 5pm. Contact: info@orfordhouse.org 020 8520 5489
Image Credits: Caro Jones
Last Gasp
Photographer Sarah Edwards finds the inner beauty in autumn decay
“When flowers have gone, look closer and you’ll still find beauty in the dead and the dying.
In summer we are spoilt by beauty as we choose what to photograph but when the cold sets in I still can’t stop.
Looking closer for inspiration the plants are still working their magic. But this time it’s different. The alchemy works inwards, invisible to some. But the forms that are left are the incredible sculpture of the dying. The last gasps of energy creates seed pods and tiny new buds for new life, preparing again for another cycle when the days get longer and the warm sun returns”
Ashley Amery:
Wandering Places 30 January – 27 February 2021
Wandering Places is Ashley Amery’s first solo exhibition at the Rebecca Hossack Art Gallery. Beginning with intricate marks, as seedlings or saplings, Amery’s paintings grow gradually, reflecting the very processes of nature in their creation.
‘My art practice is based upon drawing and pattern making as a way to investigate form and memory. Using gouache paint and ink on paper, I create detailed layers to build otherworldly abstractions rooted in familiar
organic shapes. Revisiting a painted surface many times over the course of weeks or months is essential to the development, resulting in images that are as much a tracing out of time as a representation of my imagined world.’ – Ashley Amery
Amery draws on inspirations as diverse as botanical illustration, early modernist painting, and the garden outside her studio. Her method also reflects an appreciation of hand-rendered craft derived from the Pre- Colombian traditions of Latin America and Southern California that she was exposed to during a childhood spent in San Diego, Puerto Rico and the Dominican Republic. The hand-painted pottery and woven tapestries of these cultures inform Amery’s imaginative engagement with colour and pattern.
Ashley Amery is a San Diego born London-based artist. She studied Art in Los Angeles and Florence before completing an MA in Book Arts at Camberwell College of Art in London. Amery has worked as an illustrator and printmaker, and has exhibited internationally.
visit online ( or visit physically if the lockdown ends) at the Rebecca Hossack Art Gallery, 2a Conway Street, Fitzroy Square, London, W1T 6BA.
@rebeccahossackartgallery
Image credits:
1) Kelp Blossom
2 )Narrow Waterfall (glinting)
3) Ephemeral Waterfall
4) Guava Jungle
5) Waterfall with pink flowers
Bereft of blooms as his favourite florists closed during lockdown, artist and writer Alex Musgrave’s floral cravings resulted in some new ‘flower friends’ and night-time forays with his secateurs
I photograph and paint flowers, obsessing over the lines between reality and abstract rendering. I dissect them with deliciously fresh scalpel blades, torturing sepals, bracts and gibbous receptacles, peeling stalks and unfurling the tightly wound croziers of multifarious ferns. I drown inflorescences in ink, tattoo them with curlicues and Morse code. I glue down aculeate blooms shorn of their prickles and sand them to transparent veins on sexy handmade paper and gessoed canvasses. My deviant wonderment at floral beauty knows no bounds. I surround myself with books, both old and new, on all things botanical, gardening and floral. I dream of spathes and spinose leaves, rufous foliage drifting like embers, and lactiferous stems oozing sap, dripping like a forgotten tap.
I have a favourite florist, who is patient as I rummage and gather, flitting upstairs and downstairs to the cold-stored flower stocks like a nectar-drunk bee. Walls whitewashed, decorated here and there with an accumulated history of spray paint and stencils — blurs of red, gold and purple. There is a deeply satisfying collision of odours — bright, mulchy, shouty and sweet — mixed with damp brown paper, an imagined crinkle-smell of cellophane and the cool, chalky surround of the walls.
My apartment is drugged with scent. There are vases on all surfaces — twigs and foliage in myriad vessels collected over the years that live together on sun-trapping shelves. I don’t think of flowers as a luxury; they are necessary to my daily routine. I am as suspicious of houses without flowers as I am of rooms without books.
After 23rd March, I realised rather sickeningly that my usual access to flowers was shutting down. The small network of Edinburgh florists that I awkwardly visited, choosing flowers in what I’m sure comes across as baleful silence but is, in fact, scrupulous concentration as I plan out photographs and paintings in my often-fuzzy buzzing head. These places of comfort and enchantment for me were closing their doors for swathes of unspecified time.
I know that in the terrifying global onslaught of this breath-stealing virus, and the extraordinary dedication of frontline health troops, my floral preoccupations might seem trivial, but lockdown telescoped our lives, making insular hermetically sealed oddities of us. Everything became both magnified and minuscule. As a freelance photographer and flower artist, my work disappeared overnight (as it did for so many others) and, with my access to fresh flowers in lockdown Edinburgh cut off, I felt lost and panicked. I can paint from photographs at a push, but it removes something alive from my processes; I can’t truly see the colours and textures, or navigate the sun and various light sources illuminating leaf and flower viscera.
My thing is blooms hovering between life and death — stalks, calyxes, stamens, pedicles, pistils, anthers and petals beginning to arch, curl and leach into a palette of brittle silence. Don’t get me wrong, I adore the bright nowness of fresh flowers, but I also love the transience, the gradual slip into desiccated bruise and tarnish. Foxgloves, the balletic swoon of ragged parrot tulips, lilac, frothy festoons of sakura, billy balls, fields of Van Gogh daffodils, aconite, sci-fi proteas, sanguineous poppies, helenium, irises, gentle camellias and the fluffy, green rabbit-tails of Dianthus barbatus (sweet William) — all of these and more immortalised, observed and preserved in cool dark rooms.
During lockdown, my anxiety levels went through the roof, as I imagine did many other people’s. The daily walk or exercise period we were all rather condescendingly permitted to take was something I actually struggled with. A scarcely buried agoraphobia surfaced, and I was torn between leaving the flat for floral inspiration and feeling secure in the safety of my apartment. Eventually, armed with secateurs, I wandered the deserted parks, streets and covert recesses of my environment.
I don’t think I’ll ever forget the muted eeriness of lockdown. The removal of human influences was extraordinary: the locals themselves, their chatter, and footsteps, cars, aircraft, vapour trails, retail, and transport fumes. Nature rose up, birds and insects reasserted their rightful places. The air seemed more real, alive with affirmation.
Fine hot weather with shots of rain produced lush runaway growth in the park borders and emerald tunnel shortcuts that I used on my walks. I started harvesting wild flowers, weeds, tree blossom and hanks of ivy. I found lanky foxgloves and irises, globe thistles, a myriad of geraniums. Dandelions, buttercups, nettles, fireweed, bird’s-foot trefoil, elephant’s ears and spear thistles were gathered and placed in vases to enjoy quiet sunlight. The gardens I see on my walks are beautiful, and I started looking greedily at the flowers blooming tantalising out of my reach. I contemplated flower theft, sneaking about at night with secateurs and a head lamp, silently stealing marigolds, roses, pompom dahlias, magnolia, crocosmia and hydrangea mops.
Eventually, I plucked up the courage to knock on windows or wave at people in their gardens and ask if they might part with some flowers. Most people were incredibly supportive, and I made new ‘flower friends’, forwarding on the images when I’d completed a photography session. I had socially distant chats about gardens, flowers, colour, scent, trees and how we were all managing during Covid’s insidious roaming.
There is one old cottage, part of a quiet Victorian terrace, that has the most spectacular array of kaleidoscopic roses. It has always been part of my walkabout just because the garden, though small, is always savagely beautiful, with the mingled scent of peach, almond, lemon, candyfloss, petrol, violets and clove from the roses. I find the odours mesmerising and often fancy the place as some sort of Hansel-and-Gretel trap for flower lovers, drawing me in over the moss-grouted paving stones through the pale red door to a hexed life of floral corruption. I got caught in a sunlit spring downpour in week three of lockdown and, as I hurried past, the rain had smashed petals everywhere — it was like the aftermath of a wedding. But the scent — oh my — the damp air was drunk on roses, water droplets glistening on weather-stunned blooms like diamonds. The dazzle of scents stayed with me for days.
It’s true that we only genuinely understand the importance of things when they are gone. In the grand Covid-wrecked scheme of things, flowers and foliage might seem unimportant, and I can understand why, but the weeks and months of lockdown have exerted a corrosive toll on our mental health. Beauty might seem irrelevant in the face of such an onslaught of medical incertitude, but for many of us, fragments of unexpected beauty, moments of personal calm amid fear, trauma and prickling anxiety are to be treasured. For me, this means flowers and gardens. Some of my gauzy days tore themselves to blue-black spume as migraines thundered in my head. So, flowers, be they weeds, gifted garden beauty or unknown blooms I found on tentative forays into the weird stillness of my lockdown locality, all worked profoundly to soothe and nourish my frayed and greedy spirit.
To anyone out there who discovered the odd bloom missing and witnessed a strange light in their gardens at night, I will confess to a little night-time floral theft. I apologise unreservedly, but your flowers have been immortalised on camera or in inks and pencil forever. I just couldn’t resist.
words and paintings Alex Musgrave
CHARITY SEED SWAP
Common Daisy Flowers are hosting a charity seed swap to raise funds for humanitarian aid in Afghanistan. The initiative is simple – to participate, just donate £5 or £10 through the links on the website: https://www.commondaisy.co.uk/charity-seed-swap
Once the donations close on the 30th of September, each participant will be contacted by email and given the contact details of another participant so that they can then exchange packets of seeds and anything else they wish to enclose, such as a letter or a drawing. Whether the conversation stops with the seeds or continues is up to the participants . The seed swap is designed to encourage real life interactions away from the internet, to facilitate discussions and perhaps friendships between like-minded people who seek positive change. You could end up speaking to a florist, illustrator, writer, horticulturist, or gardener – people linked by plants who might find common ground if they met in person.
The seeds sent between participants could be shop bought or harvested from individual gardens. Anything goes - flower varieties, wildflowers, grasses, veggies, herbs, whatever you’d like to share.
Within the email from Common Daisy, participants will also receive a further 2 named members’ name/address - it isn’t mandatory to contact these ones but the more people you contact and the more seeds you send out, the more post (seed packets) you would in theory receive in return. Everyone involved will receive a minimum of 2 responses in the post.
The initiative is a simple way of encouraging donations and taking action in a small way to help people caught in the crisis in Afghanistan. Donations will be shared between several relevant charities.
Every donation counts – sign up now to share seeds and help someone in need!
Common Daisy is a floral design business specialising in seasonally grown, sustainably sourced and subtle flower arrangements for weddings, events and collaborative projects. To find out more, visit their website or Instagram: https://www.commondaisy.co.uk/flowers www.commondaisy.co.uk Instagram - @commondaisyfolk
5000 bouquets were given away at the Olympics – the flowers were all gathered from areas affected by the East Japan Earthquake in 2011, and arranged by the Nippon Flower Council, with eustomas and Solomon’s seals from Fukushima, sunflowers from Miyagi, gentians from Iwate, and aspidistras from Tokyo, as well as a cuddly toy of the Olympic mascot, Miraitowa.
Various projects are underway to re-establish agricultural production in these areas, and slowly they are regenerating. Iwate is famous for its production of gentians, and Fukushima established a non-profit organisation to grow flowers in a bid to fuel the hope of recovery - now eustomas are grown on a large scale across the prefecture. In Miyagi, parents who lost their children to the disaster return each year to plant sunflowers on a hill where people ran to seek safety from the tsunami – every year the hill is covered in sunflowers.
These bouquets illustrated how long the fallout for such a disaster is - both literally and in terms of the collective memory of a nation. People have only just returned to their homes, if they have returned at all. For years these places were abandoned and grew wild – surreally, radioactive wild boar took over Fukushima, as in a real-world Princess Mononoke. With humans gone, the space became a perfect habitat for them, and they bred with the domestic pigs who had been left behind to create a species perfectly suited to the abandoned urban environment. The pigs would not have been able to survive long in the wild themselves, but their offspring with the robust wild boar could.
Similar scenes of a rapid return to wilderness were seen in Chernobyl as humans were unable to interfere with the biodiversity of the Exclusion Zone, so although some mutant qualities were observed in animals due to the radiation (such as smaller brains in birds and albinism), in general the populations of wildlife increased and rare species which had not been seen in the area for many years, such as bears, returned. Herds of Przewalski’s horses, descendants of an original herd released after the disaster, continue to live in the Exclusion Zone - like the boars in Fukushima. The rewilding of places post nuclear disaster is a silver lining of awful events and an amazing glimpse into the regenerative power of the planet.
In Japan, there are not only projects encouraging and facilitating growth in the wake of the 2011 tsunami, but some which stretch further back (and forwards) in time.
Green Legacy Hiroshima is a global volunteer campaign created in 2011 by two friends, Nassrine Azimi and Tomoko Watanabe, which aims to catalogue and spread the seeds and saplings from trees that were A-bombed in Hiroshima and Nagasaki across the world, to promote the message of caution (against nuclear weapons) and hope (in the resilience of natural things) that is inherent in the fact that these trees survived. Currently seeds and saplings from the A-bombed trees are growing in more than 30 countries - in a sustained, long-term project (they claim it should continue for 1000+ years), converging with other efforts for a nuclear-free and better planet.
SG
Image credits: Nippon Flower Council, Olympics 2020
website; https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/en/games/victory-ceremony/bouquet
Design Ventura 2020 Winning Product
The Design Museum’s annual school’s competition, Design Ventura, invites school children aged 13-16 from across the country to design a product for the museum that improves everyday life by addressing educational, environmental, or social issues. The competition is a unique opportunity for young people to experience the process and practice of design and enterprise in the real world, allowing students to venture beyond the classroom and to think in innovative ways.
This year’s winners are a team from Heckmondike Grammar School in West Yorkshire, who designed Sow Beautiful, a flower seed cannon used to disperse wildflower seeds like to help combat bee decline by creating a source of pollen for wild bees and other pollinating insects.
The seed cannon works by pulling a biodegradable balloon which launches a pack of seeds, stored in the tube, into the air like confetti, allowing for better and more entertaining dispersal of the flower seeds than could be achieved by hand.
The team had to show their designing and prototyping process and explain how they planned to address the criteria in the design brief to allow the shortlisting judges to fully understand their final product design. They competed against 15,000 students from 270 schools across the country, earning one of the seven places on the shortlist, at which point they were asked to submit a three-minute pitch video.
The pitching took place online due to the Covid-19 pandemic. The Heckmondike Team made an engaging video which explained their product convincingly and made a coherent case for the Sow Beautiful design and purpose, eloquently justifying how it fitted the brief and met the judging criteria. They were named the winners of the Design Ventura 2020 and awarded the Design Ventura trophy. Their product was displayed in the Design Ventura exhibition at the Museum along with the top seven shortlisted products.
The Heckmondike team will have the opportunity to work with a leading design studio to develop Sow Beautiful further, so that it can be sold in the Design Museum’s shop. All the proceeds will go to a charity of the students’ choice.
Runners up included:
County Upper School's Safari Matchimals, a set of flat-pack safari animals with interchangeable body parts to be swapped to create curious new creatures.
Davison Church of England High School for Girls' Positivitree, a plant designed to be given as a gift in pyramidal packaging, aimed at boosting mental wellbeing and positivity.
Ferndown Upper School's Build & Play, a pack of cards with iconic architectural designs on them which slot together to create new design structures.
Parkside Community College's The Shoe Button, a small gadget to help people learn how to tie their shoelaces.
The Burgess Hill Academy's Play Cube, a wooden cube that contains toy cars and transforms into a road map scene for young children to play with.
Trinity School's Magic Leaf - a leaf-shaped device placed in the pot with a plant, that lets you know if your plants need watering by changing colour from green to white.
Schools can register for next year’s competition on the Design Ventura website.
The highlands of Scotland are an incredibly magical place. Artisan fragrance makers FFern turned to this wild landscape for its inspiration and the result is beautiful. It’s an earthy, woody and citrus fragrance that is perfect for today’s winter solstice. Citrus and eucalyptus notes move into something delightfully resinous and then my favourite are the seaweed, moss and peaty notes with a gentle hug of patchouli . It’s uplifting and grounded at the same time. Perfectly tuned and timed for today.
“ snow gleams white a top blue-black mountains; curves of glassy water rush over rocky beds; juniper bushes grow low, bent by the wind and birch trees stand tall, silhouetted against the tawny greens of tumbling hills. The air, pure and clear, is crisp and bitterly cold. It is the unique quality of this highland air which Ffern has sought to capture; The Scottish Highlands in winter are a wild and elemental place.
This is a cool, fresh palette. For this they turned to lemon, eucalyptus, peppermint and lavender. They then layered the scent of juniper - herbaceous and spicy, like crushed black pepper - and the woody, resinous notes of fir balsam and cedar, with their distinctive evergreen edge.
Threading through this land are sky-blue streams filled with falling rain, and filtered by rock, they run seawards with gathering strength. As they go, they offer up the smell of wet pebbles and dense, damp earth.
To capture this, Ffern married oakmoss with tarragon and seaweed. This accord created an earthy, succulent and herbal aroma.
To counter the cold mineral air, they needed some warmth, some comfort amidst the Scottish terrain. And so they experimented with birch tar - full bodied and peaty, like an old whisky - and combined it with the spicy notes of cardamom, clove buds and a hint of patchouli. “
Hinting at a warm wooden bothy in the landscape.
Winter 21 comprises 17 organic, sustainably sourced fragrance ingredients, a quintuple distilled organic Italian grain vodka base, and a drop of pure H20.
The fragrance ingredients are: Black tang seaweed, Birch tar, Cardamom, Tarragon leaf, Peppermint, Blue gum eucalyptus, Balsam fir, Bergamot rind, Lemon rind, Sweet orange rind, Vetiver root, Red cedar, Patchouli, Juniper, Oakmoss, Lavender, Clove bud.
Ffern produces hand made artisan fragrances in small limited edition batches .... watch their short film here
‘Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness,
Close bosom-friend of the maturing sun;
Conspiring with him how to load and bless
With fruit the vines that round the thatch-eves run;
To bend with apples the moss'd cottage-trees,
And fill all fruit with ripeness to the core;
To swell the gourd, and plump the hazel shells
With a sweet kernel; to set budding more,
And still more, later flowers for the bees,
Until they think warm days will never cease,
For summer has o'er-brimm'd their clammy cells…’
EXTRACT FROM ‘TO AUTUMN’ A POEM BY John Keats - 1795-1821
CREDITS
Photography & Set Design: Nocera&Ferri
www.noceraferri.com
Ceramics: Noe Kuremoto
www.noekuremoto.com
Special thanks: Select-Works
www.selectworks.com
FRUKEBANA; MAKE, POUR AND DRAW SESSIONS
One of our favourite florists, Kasia Borowiecka is a London based floral artist. Inspired by Ikebana, her work is known for the quirky use of unusual flowers mixed with unexpected materials. Working with Olivia Bennett - a creative consultant and artist - they have got together to produce a series of workshops .
Using their combined knowledge of Ikebana, floral art, sculpture and food styling, they run our sessions on monthly basis at the Wharf Street Studio on the last Sunday of each month. The next session is on-line ( due to covid 19 restrictions).
During the workshop, They will have a Frukebana still life drawing session run by Olivia, followed by an Ikebana demonstration and talk run by Kasia. Finally they will create a step by step Frukebana in which participants can join in at home
No previous experience is needed. All that’s required is some the materials, a will to experiment and lots of enthusiasm, and of course a ticket to join in!
Once booked and registered - They will send you a list of materials required , a cocktail recipe and a Spotify playlist.
Next Frukebana Session on Zoom on Sunday 29th November at 2pm U.K. time.
Tickets; £15.00
Contact Kasia or Olivia on Instagram to book a space. Links below
Instagram; @oliviabennett_studio
Photography credit ; Lucia Švecová
Photographer Ivona Chrzastek and set designer Maya Angeli celebrate the organic work of designer Jochen Holz with forms that redefine modern glass
Online Charity Screening and Q&A of WW1 Short Film A Long Way Home raising money for the Royal British Legion Poppy Appeal and War Child
Visual Goods is presenting this online screening event and Q&A for 'A Long Way Home' - a short film directed by Patrick Walsh, written by James Staddon, starring Maisie Giovanelli, Elisabeth Hopper and James Northcote. This event will be raising money for The Royal British Legion Poppy Appeal and War Child Coronavirus Appeal.
Please follow this LINK to the eventbrite tickets - Please pay what you feel you can.
Join this special Armistice online screening event at 19.00 GMT on Saturday 14th November.
Please note: the film has a running time of approximately 11 minutes and will be followed by a Q&A with Cast and Crew.
This event will be hosted and powered by The Actors Community and the film is supported by the Golsoncott Foundation and Staffordshire Regimental Museum.
More than 340,000 children lost a parent during the First World War - EMMY (Maisie Giovanelli) searches for her Father in the wild English countryside after the Great War has left her and her Mother to tend the family farm alone.
Everything is in flux and in each passing moment there is beauty, from bud to decay. The temporal nature of flowers teach us to appreciate the impermanence of nature and in turn our own mortality.
Photographer – Matjaž Tančič
Art Direction and Floral Styling - Daria Bokova
Model – Dasha Veselka
Makeup & Hair – Cristina B.
Location: Blackstone Space, Shanghai, China
PHOTOGRAPHER - EMILIA COCKING
With outdoor exercise limited to once a day, photographer EMILIA COCKING used her lockdown to take photographs in her local borough of Hackney. She soon found that she was repeatedly photographing the flowers in parks and road sides. “There was something about the efflorescence of flowers that kept drawing me back - in the midst of a pandemic their symbolism for new life provided a form of comfort. When everything around us felt so uncertain, the flowers continued to blossom and grow.”
Photographs By Manuel Mendoza
“Wondelgem is a part of Ghent, Belgium. I grew up there. For me these pictures are a memory of my childhood. Passing through the images I realise I saw beauty in the houses and the encroaching nature. Subtle or very present. I love that. It is if man and nature are writing a story together.”
In some shots nature is the protagonist whilst in others the role is reversed. Captured with a painterly palette Manuel Mendoza draws our eye to the beauty and geometry in the everyday.
Do you want to photograph gardens with magical light?
Claire Takacs is a photographer who captures the magic of gardens and the beauty of fleeting moments in these special places.
Her work has been widely published over the past fifteen years in magazines and books
Now Claire is hosting her first UK, two-day garden photography workshop at Malverleys, on 25 and 26 September.
On the workshop you will go through Claire’s whole process of composing a garden picture - how to work with light to create impactful images, from the first walk around the garden, (with head gardener Mat Reese), to the theory and presentation , with tips and techniques to create impactful images.
As Claire photographs only around the hours of sunset and sunrise, you will too, so you’ll have five and a half hours to experience the magic of Malverleys, with practical guidance given both as a group and one on one, assisted by Perry Rodriguez.
After photographing, Claire will explain how she uses Lightroom to edit and process her images. You will then edit your own photographs from the weekend, selecting favourites, which will form part of a group critique to conclude the workshop.
Food will also be a highlight, with delicious, local produce provided
Interested ? Head to https://www.takacsphoto.com/workshops to book your place
Images shown all by Claire Takacs
“…Making something might just change your life…”
Recently many of us have reconnected with making things - lockdown gave us “permission” to try out some of those things we hadn’t ever had time to do.
The act of creating something allows us a form of expression that can’t be found in anything else and an antidote to the mad pace of life.
In Do Make, surfboard maker James Otter shares his love of craftsmanship in this essential guide for anyone who wants to rediscover the joy of making.
Otter Surfboards was born out of a desire to marry a passion for wood as a material with his passion for surfing in a search of a surfboard with a minimal environmental impact. With a background in designing and making furniture and building traditional timber-framed structures, James turned his skills to crafting wooden surfboards.
In this pocket sized book you’ll find anecdotes, information and motivation shared by James to get you started down a path that will give you a deeper sense of purpose and an excuse to slow down and reconnect - as well-known author Richard Sennett said, “ That slow tempo of craftwork, of taking the time you need to do something well, is profoundly stabilising to individuals.”
Published by Do Books £8.99 .
The Do Book Company is an independent publishing house based in east London. They publish inspirational pocket guides for creatives , makers and Doers
The mediterranean sunshine of Spring has moved over into a traditional British summer but that shouldn’t deter us - summer macs, scarves and hats come to the rescue as we head to the beach
Photography - julia bostock @juliabostock
stylist - sofia Johnsson @mode_by_sofia
Location @skyroomlocation
Model - Maddy Thorp
clothes as credited from Toast and SSone
This is the nursery that supplies one part of the plants for the Boboli gardens in Florence, especially the citrus trees that are stored in front of the house - the forecourt of the colossal Limonaia (Lemon House) and the Isolotto which is home to hundreds of potted citrus trees and a collection of historic rose varieties. It also has all kind of gardening tools. And of course hydrangeas, water lilies, roses.. Photographer and art director Karina Rikun captured this special place that is just one of the nurseries on site that keeps the famous garden alive.
The Boboli gardens is one of the finest gardens in Florence and an example of the Medici’s prowess in Florence. The garden is situated behind Duke Cosimo I de’ Medici’s monumental Pitti Palace. The Medici of Florence were one of the richest families in Europe - and as a way to demonstrate power and control they laid out the gardens of their palaces, with the extensive use of precious water, shading trees, citrus fruits and fragrant roses. The Medici gardens became open-air galleries in which to display their wealth housing vast collections of statues and sculpture. They were also a place to hold theatrical events and pleasure grounds for family and friends. The original 1549 Boboli garden, was designed by the sculptor, Tribolo. During the century after its inception, the garden changed and developed with help from many prominent designers. It became Florence’s grandest garden, with an early baroque drama and some avenues. The great grotto, designed by Buontalenti, is near the Palace and contains Giambologna’s Venus and Michaelangelo’s four Slaves. The natural amphitheatre behind the Pitti Palace was made into a real amphitheatre after 1600 and continues to be used as such. The garden was then extended to the west (c1620). Walks lead up to a ridge and down to an enchanted oval garden with the famous Isoletto, an island of lemon trees and sculpture. The Gardens lack a natural water source. To nourish the plants, a conduit was built from the nearby Arno River, which carries water into an elaborate irrigation system.
( sources: Gardenvisit.com and the Frustrated Gardener)
Photographers Tanya Houghton & Sarah Victoria Bates joined forces and with the loan of their friends houseplants during lockdown produced a series of images celebrating their form
Plant Parents
Kevin Fitzgerald
Gary Harmer
Tanya Houghton
Francisco Gomez de Villa Boa Luke Price
Sarah Victoria Bates
Time for a fan!
If you are slowly melting in this heat and looking for a stylish way of cooling down - pick up a fan. Here are a few we love.
Shown here from top to bottom
1-4: Fern fans - (£80) founded by Daisy Hoppen and Amanda Borberg - a collection of classic and traditional wooden hand-fans, with a twenty first century look. Each fan is hand-painted or uses coloured cotton on birch wood - all are produced in Spain. All styles are available to purchase at Fern fans
5. Manufactum (£10) -pear wood fan - made in Valencia, Spain, by a firm with 100 years’ experience of producing fans of all shapes and sizes: we’ve chosen this simple, unpretentious model with pear-wood struts and dyed cotton in a single color. They’re intended as fans for every day use, both in and out of doors
6. Diptique (£65) Wooden fan Méditerranée - Founded in Paris in 1827 by Jean-Pierre Duvelleroy, fan-makers Duvelleroy have been experiencing a new lease of life in recent years. Raw bocapi wood - Screen printed cotton canvas, perforated, primed then pleated and mounted by hand.
7 - 9 . Wolf and Badger ( from £35) -Monarch fan , Tiger tiger fan and rodeo fan- Hand Made in Spain with black painted AEA standard wooden sticks and high grade cotton. check out their wide selection of fans
10. The Japanese shop - (£15) Great wave folding fan - The Great Wave Japanese Folding Fan is a stylish Japanese fan crafted from silk and bamboo and features the iconic The Great Wave woodblock print by Katsushika Hokusai. It opens and closes in the traditional way,
Perhaps the most tender images of children are to be found when artists use their own children as the subject matter. Here Photographer Maria Maddison takes painterly portraits of her daughter with flowers
We are excited to announce the publication of our first book with publishers Ludion. Modern Ikebana, is due out on 24th September but available to pre-order now – see the link below.
Since its origins in the 6th century, ikebana has been as much a philosophy as an art, with its roots in Zen Buddhism and a reverence for nature. Over hundreds of years, it has developed a complex set of unwritten rules, that take a lifetime to master. But, in recent years, the distinctive look of ikebana – with its love of the asymmetric shapes to be found in nature and its willingness to embrace simple, natural materials – has found a new audience and opened the eyes of a generation of artists to a new way of working with flowers.
This book showcases a selection of this new wave of floral artists –some ikebana practitioners, others who find influence in the art. We asked some of the most exciting florists working today about their art and inspiration.
The book also includes an introduction to the history and evolution of Japanese floral art and an illustrated glossary of flowers and plants.
ALL PRE-ORDERS COME WITH THE CHOICE OF A FREE PRINT (shown here – printed in 12 pigment colours on fine art paper / format 21cm x 14.8 cm]
Mosaics have an incredible history with the earliest known examples from the 3rd millennium found in a temple building in Abra, Mesopotamia. In ancient Greece and Rome mosaics with patterns and pictures became widespread, used on floors, walls and ceilings. The artists that made them were highly skilled and mosaics became popular not just for their decorative value but also because as they were so durable and could be used on exteriors as well as interiors. Their popularity spread over Europe and into Russia - but as the excitement grew around the ideas of perspective and 3 dimensions in the Renaissance - mosaics with their two-dimensional form fell out of fashion.
Fast forward to the 21st century - Italian based Mutaforma have drawn inspiration from this ancient art form and have shifted the craft into the future. By finding a way to manufacture flexible modern mosaics this art can now be used almost like wallpaper. Using new technological advances in nano-technology. Each tiny ( the smallest glass tessera in the world)tessera called TILLA® ( the smallest glass tessera in the world) is composed of 17 nanolayers of metals and pigments which are applied under a surface of especially transparent glass.
The glass micro tesserae with their metallic and coloured layers are then fixed to an interlocking flexible base - which means they are able to behave like an incredibly light material - a skin or wallpaper with the qualities of mosaic. In the words of Mutaforma “ development is a process, innovation is an attitude towards change”, I like that mantra.
Anthemion is the first collection created with floral designer Dylan Tripp - the designer turned floral designer - for Mutaforma, a project that “pays homage to the aristocratic charm of the planimetric vision of flowers” and the great herbariums and ‘florilegia’ of flowers, transforming their beauty onto glass micro mosaic surfaces. The Anthemion collection consists of 3 artistic panels (Delphinium, Ammi and Anthurium), 3 modular panels and 8 colour shades which compliment the floral designs.
Shown here are the three main Tripp designs - First ‘Delphinium’ where blue anemones jostle with vanda orchids, veronicas and delphiniums. Strong shades of violet and blue created by cascades of flowers on a dark blue background which enhances the depth of the colour palette.
Other designs in the collection by Tripp include ‘Anthurium’ and “ Ammi’. Anthurium uses pink anthurium and carnations to create a strong geometric composition with a palette of acid green, white and pink . Whilst ‘Ammi’ - chrysanthemums, anemones, amaranthus, calla lilies, asclepias fruticose give a green and white composition with the dark centre of the anemone drawing the eye back to the darkness of the background.
The return of the floral aesthetic in Interior design coincides with a wider global arts and crafts movement - one that celebrates the language of flowers and the natural world.
“I did not imagine that mosaics and flowers had so much in common. The idea of colour and movement from which I start and draw inspiration to create my floral compositions are the same stylistic elements that are needed for the design of mosaics…Starting from the inspiration of 'modified flowers', we thought of highlighting the geometries and volumes that arise from my compositions, expanding them, isolating them and working on a colour palette that was in nuance, to enhance them being an organic body.” Dylan Tripp
Exclusively available in the UK from Fameed Khalique here
“when dusk becomes a dream and flowers are veiled
the smokiness of memory breathes febrile ambiguity….”
Photographer: Piet Johnson
Stylist: Mim Quin-Harkin
100 20th-Century Gardens & Landscapes
by The Twentieth Century Society
A great piece of architecture is a sum of its parts and too often the exterior spaces and landscape architects are forgotten to the ideas behind the immediacy of the building or the interiors.
In this new book, 100 20th-Century Gardens and Landscapes from the Twentieth Century Society, edited by Susannah Charlton and Elain Harwood, outstanding British garden and landscape design since 1914 is celebrated and discussed not only as a space where radical ideas on layout and planting could be tested and formed but also landscapes where new ideas on how public parks and public spaces were designed or repurposed. Rehabilitating communities by bringing a new sense of place.
Gardens are particularly difficult to conserve – planting changes, trees grow and the landscape is constantly evolving. Sensitivity to the original ideas is key. But the growing need for more land to build on means quite often gardens are threatened. This book casts a much-needed light on why it is so important now to discuss, protect and preserve these spaces.
The book leads us through 100 gardens and landscapes, from the worlds of Gertrude Jekyll and Vita Sackville-West to Derek Jarman, Piet Oudolf, Frederick Gibberd and the ecologically sensitive gardens of the 21st century.
Essays from leading design historians including Barbara Simms, Elain Harwood and Alan Powers further explore garden and landscape design in the 20th century.
Image credits from top:
Stoke Poges Gardens of Remembrance
Location: Buckinghamshire
Designed by: Edward White
Created: 1935-37
Registered: Grade I
Image credit: John East
Barbara Hepworth Sculpture Garden
Location: St Ives, Cornwall
Designed by: Barbara Hepworth
Created: 1949
Registered: Grade II
Image credit: Elain Harwood
Trawsyfynydd Power Station
Location: Gwynedd
Designed by: Sir Basil Spence and Dame Sylvia Crowe
Created: 1959-65
Image credit: John East
Barbican Estate
Location: City of London
Designed by: Chamberlin, Powell & Bon
Created: 1962-80
Registered: Grade II*
Image credit: John East
Hauser & Wirth
Location: Bruton, Somerset
Designed by: Piet Oudolf
Created: 2014
Image credit: John East
The Hill (Inverforth House)
Location: Hampstead, London
Designed by: Thomas H. Mawson & Sons
Created: 1922
Registered: Grade II
Image credit: John East
Where in the dirt
There is a delicacy and, in direct contrast, a brittleness to pressed flowers, in the fading of colour and the exposure of the bare bones of the structure. Emma Witter’s personal project after the death of her grandmother is moving because of its fragility, which echoes her feelings of memory and loss, and its restrained palette, which reflects the material and her ongoing work as a sculptor
Images: Emma Witter
Poem: Jonah Pontzer
Where in the dirt
can we best scrape a line
to separate all the thoughts
We had before, from all the future
feelings yet to break upon us?
How do we stop ourselves from
going back again? Rethinking and
Contorting all that still won’t sit right...
Lines in sand never stay,
But dirt is, well, earthier, and
Therefore capable of growth, which is
What I want for us — to grow,
New buds, old friends, little leaves,
turning upwards towards
Warm sun in cool Spring breezes
We are our bests in April... even if we
May well too, see chapters of summer
Slowly open, long-sun dusty nights
Thick with heat and hope
to work our trades,
As kalimotxos keep us straight,
Like the line I long to draw...
In fresh soil, new mud,
for we are moving swiftly on.
Jonah Pontzer
These images were created at the end of lockdown by photographer Lydia Whitmore and floral stylist Ultramarine using locally grown British flowers. They represent a portal into a natural world that gives us hope for the future in an era of uncertainty.
Credit : Rose vase by Minnie Mae Stott ( page 6)
anatomē’s Botanical Defence Hand Cleanser
The Covid-19 pandemic has made us more aware of what we touch and how clean our hands are. Sanitising our hands is now a regular and necessary part of our daily routine, and there are plenty of products out there but this is my favourite.
London apothecary anatomē was founded in 2017 by Brendan Murphy who wanted to provide natural, organic botanical products to support both mind and body. The brand’s new Botanical Defence Hand Cleanser is organic and free of pesticide residues that can cause skin irritation and other dermatological conditions. The cleanser contains 60% organic alcohol, natural spring water and botanical essential oils, which means it also smells fantastic.
The key ingredients are English lavender and tea tree essential oils which help to moisturise and soften the skin, and reduce redness and irritation caused by continuous hand washing. Both oils have antiseptic, antifungal and antibacterial properties and their scents can also help alleviate anxiety. Derived from sugar beet, the organic alcohol evaporates quickly leaving no nasty residue on the hands, while natural minerals such as magnesium, calcium and potassium in the spring water help bind water to the skin, leaving your hands feeling fresh, smooth and hydrated.
A 50ml bottle of the Botanical Defence Hand Cleanser costs £24 and is available from anatomē’ shop at 2-4 Princes Arcade, Piccadilly, London W1 or its website www.anatome.co/
Shadow image: Tanya Trofymchuk
This series of images by photographer Garth McKee aims to celebrate and explore the female form and its relationship to nature. Following the natural lines of the body, flower petals journey along the curves. The poetry is in the form, the eroticism in the composition.
Photography: Garth McKee @garth_mckee
Creative Direction: Solène Riff @solenebiff
Model: Marta Paccagnella @martapacca
Make-up & Hair: Hannah Wastnidge @wastnidge.makeup
Botanical Artwork: Solène Riff @solenebiff
Summer, the second film in a series on the seasons, directed and produced by Black Rabbit London, with garden design by Miria Harris.
Black Rabbit films and Miria Harris present their second film in their series
London-based Parisian Anissa Kermiche started off creating beautiful jewellery and more recently moved onto designing ceramics. Based on the female form – aptly named Love Handles and Jugs Jug – these quirky vases were originally designed for herself, but when friends visited, they would ask where they could buy them. Word spread and now you can buy her work from stores including Net-A-Porter, Liberty, The Conran Shop and Matches.com
When Matthew Cunnington and John Sanderson created the pillow dress for their AW18-19 Occupied collection, they never imagined that it would go viral on Instagram during the pandemic – #pillowchallenge
There are few designers who can cut and drape straight off a mannequin and literally sculpt fabric into clothing but that’s exactly what Matthew and John, the British duo behind luxury fashion label Cunnington & Sanderson, do – to great acclaim.
The pair met while studying fashion design at the University of Central England. After graduation, they moved to London, where Cunnington attained an MA in fashion design and enterprise from the University of Westminster, and then went on to work as a ready-to-wear designer at Givenchy in Paris. Meanwhile, Sanderson gained work experience at two leading fashion houses. The duo presented their debut catwalk show in 2009. They are now based in West Yorkshire, and have a loyal and growing following.
Their collections have a Japanese aesthetic – think Yohji Yamamoto or Junya Watanabe but with an English voice. By designing each garment from the fabric (typically a Japanese approach) as opposed to for the silhouette, every Cunnington & Sanderson piece feels like it’s sculpted. Through clever folding, cutting, layering and asymmetrical draping, their pieces go beyond the transient nature of fashion and focus on the garment’s construction and movement. The importance of fabric to them is tangible – with a preference for traditional, quality textiles. All their collections are based on narratives that weave throughout the designs.
At first glance, the garments appear simple but there is real craft behind them – in the shifting silhouettes, raw edges, flashes of colour and volumes of gathered fabric ‘that transfigure when worn’. Contradictory elements sit next to one another; fluid jersey contrasts with the stiffness of tailored wool, silhouettes are protective as well as revealing. This craftsmanship doesn’t come cheap but these are collectors’ pieces of the future.
Here, we talk to the talents behind the non-conformist label about their designs and influences
Where did you grow up? And when were you first aware of fashion? JS: I grew up in the picturesque Yorkshire village of Kelbrook. My father was a builder and my mother owned a newsagents, where I loved to dress the windows. I was always very creative. As a child in the 1980s, I loved shopping in the local markets, where I could buy skinny jeans, puffer jackets, neon socks and oversized t-shirts. I still feel it’s a privilege that every day I get to choose what I want to wear. MC: I’m from Birmingham. My mum was a seamstress and my dad was a carpenter, so both are creative and worked with their hands. My first memory of fashion was seeing fashion illustrations in an art class at school, and that sparked enough interest for me to talk to a careers adviser about studying fashion design.
How did you meet?
JS: We met in our final year on the BA fashion design course at the University of Central England in Birmingham. It is our shared passion for draping ‘the new’ on the mannequin that is the creative foundation of our brand. Working together happened naturally as we both had the same vision – to create thought-provoking garments that were original, creative and held within a narrative.
Your work reminds me of Japanese designers like Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo and even early Galliano. Are they important influences for you?
JS: Yes, because they paved the way by showing that fashion can be innovative; that garments can be designed, constructed and expressed in an organic and original way; and that clothes don’t have to be designed to fit a preconceived block pattern.
MC: To us, clothes are far more than simply something you wear – they are designed and made to be cherished. And we assume that these designers feel the same way. Wearing clothes that you want to wear is very empowering.
Describe your signature aesthetic
JS: We don’t follow trends or predictions and try to design clothes that are seasonless and timeless. The garments are draped and crafted to capture original shape and form. A collection’s narrative is of the utmost importance to us in the creative process and is at the heart of every garment. Our aim is to create designs with a fashion narrative that are new, brave and unseen, that express emotions and a feeling of freedom, and that push boundaries and expectations. We want to create unbalanced, gravity-defying structures and sculptural silhouettes that speak for themselves, that express a story without words. This is what excites and drives us as designers.
Do you work from a drawing first, or drape first and then draw?
MC: Always draping first. Working with the fabric to capture our chosen narrative, we combine techniques like folding, twisting and draping with creative pattern cutting. There are many stages of editing and fine-tuning – you have to get things wrong to be able to get them right – before a design is complete. Moving fabric by even 1cm can make a huge difference and change the whole appearance of a garment. We love to watch the fabric and see how it changes in shape, tension and form when it’s worn.
Did you use draping right from the start in your designs?
JS: Yes. My first experience of working on a mannequin was at art college and it was an instant connection to creativity. Some of my first designs included a paper origami dress, garments restructured from old jeans and a multi-buttoned shirtdress that can be worn in lots of different ways.
MC: Yes. The unexpected and endless possibilities are what make this process exciting and revolutionary. Working is an organic process, shaping the cloth with your hands to create new designs. My final collection at university was called ‘The handbags and the gladrags’ and told the story of my Nan’s life. The first model depicted her holding a handbag full of letters and photographs. Looking through these sentimental items, memories came alive on the catwalk. Each stage of her life was represented – from a young child through to her working life and losing her brothers during the Second World War, which was poignantly represented by the poppy dress. The collection contained eight outfits, each with its own story to tell to complete the jigsaw.
Sustainability is a fashion buzzword these days. Is it important to you?
JS: We feel that clothes should be cherished and long lasting, so it’s really important for our brand to promote sustainability and slow fashion. By working with sustainable fabrics, such as organic cottons and jerseys with a traceable history, we can design and produce zero-waste garments, so no fabric is added to landfill. We also work with ethical production techniques and processes that are environmentally friendly.
Does nature play an important part in your lives and work?
JS: Yes. We’re grateful to live in the countryside and to be able to step out into fields, forests and riverside paths from our front door. Long walks help to declutter the mind and re-energise us mentally and physically.
MC: Nature is often an inspiration for us. For example, our Amygdala collection featured a restoration print created from the inside of bark from a silver birch tree. This same technique also played a key role in our exhibition at the International Festival of Fashion and Photography in Hyères, France. One exhibit was a burnt wooded sculpture above unlit coals, all handcrafted and built on site. The other was a display of garments made from pianola music rolls, which we housed among flora and fauna in a burnt summer house with a soundtrack of piano music – we wanted to capture the emotions and memories ignited by a recognisable sound.
Do you have a garden?
JS and MC: Sadly, we don’t. However, we have a series of large potted plants that surround the house, many of which are gifts from family and friends, so they are very special to us. The plants include ferns, hostas, astrantias, hollyhocks, cow parsley, succulents and a mini cherry tree. Our plant colour palette is green, white and black.
What’s the biggest strength of working together?
JS: Having someone to talk to throughout the whole process of running your own brand. Sharing memories of exhibitions and fashion shows, the amazing experiences we’ve had and the awards we have won. Also discussing the things we want to change and improve on in the future.
MC: At the start of each collection, we decide on its story, which might be inspired by the objects we collect, music, emotions, silhouettes, words, art and symbolism. When the narrative is written, we transfer this world into our draping and garment design. Excellent communication and compromise are key to ensuring we’re both on the same page with the same vision. We also achieve this because we are both involved throughout the whole design process from concept to draping and editing, pattern cutting to choosing finishes, fabric and colour ways, to fittings, production, right up until the garment is worn by one of our customers. Having two perspectives is really exciting. We have different ideas but because we work in the same way, the results are always in unison.
Do you ever disagree?
MC: Yes, of course. But it helps us to identify what the other person is thinking and why they are thinking a certain way. Disagreements also help us focus on what’s important to us and to find a middle ground, which usually brings out the best results. Which fabric mills do you work with? Are all your textiles sourced from the UK?
JS: Since our brand began, we’ve worked closely with Yorkshire woollen mill Abraham Moon & Sons, which was set up in 1837. We believe it produces some of the best-quality woollen fabrics in the world. It also promotes sustainability by completing all the processes on one site. We also collaborate with local mills Hainsworth and Joseph H Clissold, and use organic fabrics from London and Wales.
What or who are the biggest influences on your work?
JS and MC: Our own emotions, experiences and stories that we share as one. We both play a role in the creativity and business as a whole.
Which artists have inspired you?
JS and MC: Antony Gormley, Rachel Whiteread, Barbara Hepworth, Le Corbusier, Anselm Kiefer, Julie Verhoeven, Ai Weiwei, Egon Schiele, Paolo Roversi, Guinevere van Seenus.
What advice would you give to someone starting out in the industry?
MC: Work out what you love about fashion because that will give you the motivation and dedication to succeed. Don’t try to do everything on your own; there are so many aspects to running your own fashion brand – marketing, production, sales and budgeting – and you need to find guidance and support where you can.
Fashion is a multisensory experience – from a fabric’s texture and smell to its feel against your skin, to the sound it makes when you move. Is that important to you?
MC: Yes, and the creativity and the endless possibilities in the process and the relationship you build with your design, the method of the construction and the hidden secrets of the finishes and sewing techniques used. We are especially proud when we look at a garment from a previous collection and see that it still retains its own story.
JS: The fitting of a garment is very important to us. It’s crucial that the fabric naturally drapes with its own volume and weight. We try to capture the precise moment when the tension of the fabric is just right, holding the design in place exactly how we want it to be. Discovering and controlling this fine balance has taken many years to get right. Even to this day, we’re still fascinated with this process.
What’s next for the brand?
JS: Our next collection is titled ‘What once was’. The narrative is focused on sustainability and how things can be reused. Emotional symbolism, draping and telling a story play a key role as always in our work. The collection expresses characteristics of hope and looking forward with an unusual combination of comfort and carefree rebellion, while still retaining features of its past. Zero-waste garments that drape effortlessly around the wearer are combined with oversized sweatshirts. Luxurious and soft organic fabrics promote quality over quantity, longevity and the importance of slow fashion. These are clothes made to be cherished.
MC: After the pandemic, we look forward to continuing our zero-waste draping workshops. Previously, we’ve run workshops at H.E.A.D. Geneva, Sheffield Hallam University and at Nottingham Trent University. We’ve also been selected for the Not Just A Label x Joor x 100 Project, which enables us to have our work on leading international wholesale platforms JOOR and widen our exposure. That’s very exciting.
Fashion and fragrance often go hand in hand. What are your favourite scents?
JS: One of my favourite childhood memories is captured by the scent combination of hairspray, cigarette smoke and Chanel No.5. Other scents I love include vine tomatoes, hay bales, Christmas trees and lavender – all of which have wonderful memories and transport me back to a moment in time whenever I smell them.
MC: Sweet peas, jasmine, honeysuckle, freshly grown tomatoes in a greenhouse and certain floral scents that evoke loving memories.
Would Cunnington & Sanderson ever consider creating a fragrance? And if so, what ingredients would sum up the label?
MC: We’d love to. It would be an unusual mix of aromas: very pure and elegant, fresh, contemporary and light with a subtle hint of jelly babies or rhubarb and custard.
www.cunningtonandsanderson.com
Photographer: Rapael Kroetz
Model: Zoe Herveva at Tune Models
Make-up & Hair: Sabine Nania
Interview: Victoria Gaiger
‘Foragers of the Ballinskelligs’ is a collaboration between London-based duo, photographer Tanya Houghton and food stylist Johan van der Merwe. Having bonded over a passion for wild landscapes and the rich food sources they offer, the pair set out to produce a body of work that explored foraging along Ireland’s coast of Kerry.
Ballinskelligs (originally Baile en Sceilg) translates from Irish as ‘place or village on the craggy rock’. It is a wild landscape, an amalgamation of coastline, beautiful mountains and huge areas of undisturbed bog and wild forest.
The area is known worldwide by botanists for its extensive range of floral and fauna. The local climate is affected by warm air rolling in from the Gulf Stream, the North Atlantic current that allows the air to travel across the sea and warm the landscape as it flows inland, resulting in milder winters and creating the perfect growing environment for many species of plants.
In awe of the history of the landscape and inspired by the diets of the area’s early settlers, Houghton and van der Merwe combined their knowledge and set out to forage and catalogue a range of wild edible fauna, exploring the array of local shellfish – clams, mussels, and oysters – and discovering the wide range of highly nutritional seaweed that grows along the coastline.
Using only foraged ingredients, van der Merwe draws on his culinary background, formulating recipes inspired by the wild produce. These dishes nestle against Houghton’s images, capturing abstract forms of the landscape in which they were found; her sculptural still lifes complementing the rich food imagery.
Photographer Sarah Edwards found magic in the clouds of seeds she spotted on her morning walk.
‘And, above all, watch with glittering eyes the whole world around you because the greatest secrets are always hidden in the most unlikely places.’ Roald Dahl
RE_NATURED
Photographer: Luciano Munhoz
The power of nature to heal itself has been highlighted in recent times as cities return to places of birdsong, skies are cleared and wildlife starts entering our cities. Animals are exploring emptied streets and waterways, and plants are reclaiming spaces as humans retreat. In his series of images, Brazillian photographer, Luciano Munhoz captures magical places where nature has started to reclaim places that man once moulded, used, abandoned or destroyed.
Urban parks and hedgerows offer a surprising wealth of ingredients – all for free. Expert forager Wross Lawrence brings you tips and recipes, and identifies edible plants with this modern guide to foraging.
Hawthorn berry ketchup, cherry blossom shortbread, nettle ravioli, elderflower fritters, cowslip summer rolls – these are just some of the incredible dishes you can make from ingredients foraged from around city landscapes and parks.
The book features beautiful photography from Marco Kesseler and advice from Lawrence on how to identify 32 plants, cook them and produce a wild feast. Leaves, nuts, berries, flowers and some well-known weeds are all in the mix, showing that even in the urban environment if you know where to look, there’s a wealth of delicious ingredients waiting to be discovered.
The Urban Forager: Find and Cook Wild Food in the City, priced £12.95, is published by Hoxton Mini Press.
For the last 30 years, Eric Danot has cultivated hundreds of bonsai trees. The actor turned bonsai lover – witness the stage lights rigged above shelf after shelf of potted and immaculately pruned trees in his Brighton shop – dedicates his life to the Japanese art, and is happiest when nurturing a tree from seed. Over the years, Eric has artfully – and successfully – trained seedlings of pine, birch, fern, fig, juniper and most notably: a Sainsbury's pomegranate.
His love of bonsai (盆栽鉢) began in childhood with comic books. ‘It was The Dandy or the Beano, I can’t remember which,’ he says. ‘It said that the way you grow bonsai is to scoop out half an orange, fill it with soil, plant a seed in it, and when the roots come out through the skin, you cut them off and that’s how you make bonsais.’ Sadly, though, the method didn’t work. ‘It just turned to mush and rotted.’ His parents then suggested he visit the library for more reliable sources of information. ‘I found one book. It was mostly in Chinese, but looking at the diagrams I could see that half an orange never entered the equation at all. You take a seed, you grow it to the size you want and then start shaping it. You shape it the way you want to, bearing in mind that the conditions the plant needs, remains the same.’
Housing a collection of over 250 trees, his shop, Bonsai-Ko, can be found in Brighton's North Laines, jammed in between artisan bakeries, falafel joints, and vintage clothing stores. It is both a horticulturist's paradise and a feast for the eyes. For close to 30 years, Eric has lived upstairs, cohabiting with his other passion: fish tanks. Enter the shop and you will find a winding path edged with large stones, pebbles and potted trees of varying proportions. On the right are a range of Elephant Bush trees (Portulacaria Afra) with coiling branches that resemble trunks, and on the left, the “tree of a thousand stars” and a number of waxy-leaved Tropical Figs (Ficus Retusa). When asked which of the bonsais, to his trained eye, need watering that afternoon, Eric replies, ‘none’.
When did his love of gardens, plants and nature begin? ‘My mother was Dutch, and when I visited my grandparents in Holland, I’d always end up working in the allotments with my grandfather. I’d spend most of my days gardening with him – gardening’s always been the other thing I did.’
Eric began his acting career in unconventional circumstances. ‘The first job I got was Oh! Calcutta – a nude review show,’ he says. ‘I did a tour of Hair followed by Tommy at the West End, and a few episodes of Doctor Who with Tom Baker.’ Life on the road, didn’t inhibit his growing collection of plants. His travelling companions – which included a number of palms and orchids – created a sense of permanency, in a not-so permanent exitence. Then one day his life changed. ‘I was housesitting [in Brighton], when a friend said, why don’t you open a shop and sell your plants?’ Initially, Eric dismissed the idea. But within six weeks he had opened for business. ‘This is my theatre now. This is the stage, and I have my lines too.’ Of all the thousands of tourists who stream past in the summer, who has been the most unlikely visitor to his miniature arboretum? ‘A group of Hells Angels walked in once, and one of them came over to me and started talking in Latin, he knew all the names and had a huge collection of his own.’
Contrary to popular belief, bonsais can be grown from any woody-stemmed tree or shrub that produces branches. It’s only through the training and manipulating of branches that the tree can claim the name “bonsai”. The oldest bonsai tree is more than 500 years old, yet many cultivators struggle to identify how mature their trees are, mainly because many bonsai trees are surprisingly old (bonsai extends a tree’s life). Until recently, Eric thought the oldest tree in his collection was a Juniper, aged 68 years old, but he has since discovered his Scots Pine is nearing 75 years.
When he opened his shop in 1990, the locals were much amused. ‘I told the chairman of the North Laine Traders’ Association that I’d be selling bonsai trees, and he wished me luck. When he later reported this at a meeting, they howled with laughter and gave me six weeks!’ As he enters his fourth decade in business, Brighton’s Bonsai trouper could be forgiven for asking, who’s laughing now? ‘For me, a perfect day would be a beautiful sunny Saturday morning, everyone floods down to the beach and then a sea fog rolls in, chilling everybody and dragging them back in land.’ Where they will find sanctuary under the stage lights, a green oasis beyond the shoreline – a tree lovers home from home.
Words: Natalie Baker
Photography: James Hayes
5 of the best plant-based pastimes during lockdown
Words: Janice Morton
Listen – Growing Wild podcast
Join Charlotte Petts, winner of the Alan Titchmarsh New Talent Prize at the Garden Media Guild Awards, as she chats to a range of fascinating guests who are all trying to make a difference to the natural world. Subjects covered in the 50-minute podcast range from wild swimming to foraging to environmental issues. Tune in to pick up tips, relax and reconnect with nature.
To download previous podcasts, visit Audioboom website or Apple.com.
Watch – A Little Chaos
Kate Winslet plays feisty Sabine du Barra, a landscape designer well ahead of her time in this Louis XIV-era costume drama directed by and starring Alan Rickman. Chosen to build one of the main gardens at the new Palace of Versailles, in her new position of power, Sabine challenges both gender and class barriers while also becoming romantically involved with the court’s renowned landscape artist André Le Nôtre (Matthias Schoenaerts). Slow-paced and sumptuously shot, it’s perfect lockdown escapism.
Available on Google Play and Amazon.
Read – A London Floral: An Illustrated Guide – Unmissable Destinations for Flower Lovers
From secret spaces bursting with blooms to much-loved parks and trend-setting florists, this guide leads you on a fragrant trail of London’s key
floral destinations. And if you want to dine among flowers, learn about them or see how they can transform urban architecture, that’s all here too, presented in a beautifully illustrated map that folds down to a handy pocket-sized guide. Divided by area, the guide lists some 85 addresses of interest – all ready to be visited when the lockdown is lifted.
A London Floral: An Illustrated Guide – Unmissable Destinations for Flower Lovers by Natasha Goodfellow is available in paperback from Finch Publishing.
Try – Botanical illustration
Love plants and looking for something artistically involving to occupy your lockdown leisure hours? What about an online botanical illustration course? But where to start among the many on offer? The Botanical Arts and Artists website is a good place. It offers an overview and evaluation of the courses and resources on offer to help you choose the one that’s right for you – whether you’re an absolute beginner wanting to paint abstract watercolours, or looking to draw more complex forms.
For more details, visit the Botanical Arts and Artists website.
Visit – Five Seasons: The Gardens of Piet Oudolf
This insightful documentary immerses us in the world of the maverick Dutch landscape designer exploring his creative process – from his abstract sketches to his theories on beauty – to the ecological implications of his ideas. The 75-minute film follows Oudolf as he designs and installs a new garden at Hauser and Wirth in Somerset, south-west England, and features discussions in all fours seasons in his own gardens at Hummelo in the Netherlands, on visits to his public works such as New York’s High Line, as well as some of the far-flung locations that inspired him.
Thomas Piper’s photography is exquisite (he made his name shooting architectural films), but what he shows us is that Oudolf’s gardens are contemporary works of art. In Five Seasons, the beauty of his garden at any given moment is breathtaking.
‘I think Piet’s line during the winter scene, “I aim for… getting things right for bad moments,” sort of sums it up,” says Piper.
Available on the Five Seasons website.
Photographer FRANKIE TURNER and stylist MAUD EDEN find beauty in the calligraphic shapes of the humble potato shoot.
Photographer Marton Gosztonyi’s series of his children’s walks in lockdown, remind us of the importance of the freedom to roam and climb
SPRING
The first film in a series on the seasons, directed and produced by Black Rabbit London, with garden design by Miria Harris
A Short film showing a garden by Miria Harris produced and directed by Black Rabbit Films
Rakes [reads]
Peter Bialobrzeski studied Politics and Sociology before he became a photographer for a local paper in his native Wolfsburg, Germany. He travelled extensively in Asia before returning to study photography at the Folkwang School in Essen and then at the London College of Printing (LCP).
Give My Regards To Elizabeth is a record of Bialobrzeski’s time in England in the early 1990s when he attended the LCP (now the London College of Communication).
While Germany was experiencing a booming post-unification economy, the UK was still in recession, with growing unemployment and increasing pessimism. Thatcherite capitalism had left deep scars on the country, and British society was dominated by a class structure that didn’t exist in his native Germany. All of these gave rise to a collection of images that act as a fascinating historical document of that time.
Influenced by the British colour photography of the 1980s, the images were originally organised in the form of two handbound book dummies and now, 27 years later, the work is published in a format close to these original layouts.
Peter Bialobrzeski currently teaches at the Hochschule für Künste in Bremen, Germany, and has established his reputation as one of today’s leading European photographer. His work exhibited in Europe, the United States, Asia, Africa and Australia and he has won numerous awards.
£30 hardback, published by Dewi Lewis Publishing
Photographer Tom Brannigan took cuttings from his garden and created a story that is inspired by a love of fossils
What if we were to live and create using only materials locally available to us?
‘Gatherers’ is an immersive digital and physical exhibition by OmVed Gardens, Thrown and Metafleur held on 16th and 17th May 2020.
Foraged, dug, cut and collected, the materials used by the artists and makers are not just about form but are a way of exploring their surroundings – creating unique stories revolving around a sense of place and local material.
Using the medium of ceramics as a starting point, the exhibition includes wild clay projects that stretch from Tambourine Mountain, Australia, right back to OmVed Gardens itself. Slate and gorse from North Wales are combined with clay in a collection titled ‘The Gold Beneath the Gorse’ by award-winning graduate Rhiannon Gwyn, while the partnership of artists Steph Buttle and Tim Gray presents the collection ‘Unessential Items’, a series of sculptures inspired and formed by storm-revealed root balls, ‘all those hidden tendrils suddenly discovered and looking mysterious’, found on the Dorset coast.
The ceramic work and exhibition content will be further expanded with foraged floral displays from Metafleur flower studio. This will include an intertwined collaborative wild garden installation by Metafleur’s founder Alice McCabe and ceramicist Zuleika Melluish on the central stage. With Alice’s usual suppliers suspended, Metafleur uses solely flowers dried from previous events together with friends’ and Omved gardens offcut materials.
Originally part of the Chelsea Fringe Festival, and due to open during lockdown, the exhibition will exist in the digital sphere to begin with, enabling guests to experience foraged art through virtual reality, online workshops, film and photography.
As the UK begins to open up following the lifting of restrictions, the exhibition will slowly take form physically, with members of the public invited to OmVed Gardens in line with government guidelines. This could be in three weeks or three months. Like the works on display and the state of society, the exhibition’s path will be improvised as it progresses, an on-going experiment of sorts.
For a virtual tour of the exhibition, click here.
Image credits, from top: Overgrown herb garden in North Wales, the source of flowers for Zuleika Melluish’s ceramics; Three clays' Small Vases by Ratbag Studios; Non-essential items #6 – porcelain, black clay, waxed thread, plaster, twigs and hardwood frame by Stephanie Buttle and Tim Gray; Mynydd stoneware tea bowl by Rhiannon Gwyn; miscellaneous vases; dried flower arrangement by Metafleur
Photographer Benjamin Swanson and stylist Imogen Frost celebrate the sharpening of light at dawn
Beachcombing on the Costa Verde in Lima, Peru, Alexander Neumann and Lía Lázaro collected stones, bricks and pipes to create their own concrete garden
Photographer: Alexander Neumann
Art direction and styling: Lía Lázaro
TREADING LIGHTLY AMONG THE GHOSTS
When Victoria Fritz moved into Twitts Ghyll In East Sussex, she uncovered a 100-year-old garden built as a refuge from the political front line by Austen Chamberlain, who fought to heal a fractured nation – and secure peace in Europe. But what secrets did he leave behind?
To read the full feature, see issue 11 rakesprogress.
EARTH IN HER HANDS
Meet Milla Veera Tuulia Prince, ‘The Woman who Married a Bear’, a Finn who practices old plant medicine in Lopez Island, Washington
Words: Jennifer Jewell
Her work: Educator, advocate, ancestral plant medicine, Lopez Island, Washington
Her plant: “My main plant ally is the nettle, an ancestral food medicine plant for me, and one that also grows in the bioregion I live in on unceded Coast Salish territory off the coast of Washington. Nettle is a nutrient-dense plant, which actually helps us absorb other constituents and nutrients from the rest of our diets, and this quality made it vital to my people’s resilience, survival, and ability to thrive in the harsh climate of the taiga.”
Her plant journey: Milla Prince writes of her childhood, ‘I grew up in the subarctic taiga, in the boreal forests, lakeshores, hills and ecotones of my home city in eastern Finland, about 200 miles from the Arctic Circle and less than 100 miles from the Russian border.’ She is now an educator and plantswoman advocating for and modelling an embrace of traditional, culturally based plant knowledge as part of broad cultural literacy.
Like many of us, she works as an immigrant, far from the homelands of her heritage, a fact she actively strives to consider with compassion and responsibility, despite the inherent dichotomies. Her work centres on exploring and sharing a plant- and land-loving way forward in an age rife with separation – both forcible and chosen – of people from their historic lands, of our greater lives from how we make our livings, of our food from our plants from our medicine from our spirituality, and finally, our proximal separations from one another due to diaspora and the digital age.
Milla is known online as The Woman who Married a Bear. She writes a somewhat regular blog of the same name, and her tagline, Old Ways in a New Age, speaks to her belief in working to embrace and embody life’s many dichotomies. One branch of her plant work is crafting “spirit-based, vibrational plant medicines, or ‘potions.’ These medicines contain such esoteric ingredients as plant spirits, elements, moons, weathers, animal essences, and old deities.”
Some of her earliest memories are about plants – talking to them, eating them, making “soups” and “potions,” playing games. ‘Once I acquired the words for my plant medicine practice, it came to me that these practices were as old as my own body – they were ancestral and intuitive.’ The wild and cultivated experiences of her childhood combined to teach her ‘a lot about my people’s ancient practices, resilience, and plant relations,’ a form of knowledge she descriptively refers to as an ‘ambient endemic cultural knowledge model’.
In her early twenties, Milla lived in England where she continued her herbal education through some formal and some experiential learning. She returned to Finland for college before meeting her husband and emigrating to the United States when she was 30. As an outsider who sometimes sees cultural nuances in the United States with a different clarity than people who’ve always lived with them, Milla is ‘interested in fostering land connection for folx with settler ancestry, to facilitate allyship and reciprocity with the land and her people’. Her great hope is that in “connecting folx with their own ancestral herbal practices and the medicines of their people, we can also be of service in preserving and restoring the habitat on the lands we currently occupy. We can also follow indigenous leadership in learning to be of service in these places, in the hope of reducing appropriation and helping usher in a more land-based mindset as we shift away from an extractive, colonial culture.’
The climate, weather and topography of the Salish Sea around Lopez Island where she and her husband live resonated immediately with Milla’s Finnish heritage. Here, she started her first real garden, growing ‘local native plants, healing plants from around the world, and traditional kitchen herbs, as well as food medicine for my family’. Because many of the native and naturalised plants are similar to those in Finland – wild roses and rose hips, 100-year-old plum trees, plantain, nettle, pine, fir – she could continue with a lot of her practices around plant foods and medicine, although with a keen sense of the land not really being hers and trying to work with the grief of that, but also the empathy available in that understanding.
‘For the longest time, my plant medicine practices were private and intimate,’ she says, but for the last few years, she has shared her work ‘with others outside my immediate family and friends. That’s been a huge growth edge to me – at times really uncomfortable, but also rewarding and magical.”
One challenge for Milla has been to ‘fill in the gaps in my education, and stay true to my unique path in honouring my people’s medicine, and cultivating and reviving those practices. Braiding Sweetgrass (2013) by Robin Wall Kimmerer taught me so much about plant-human relations in an ecosystem and the reciprocal exchange that’s part of our land-based ancestral knowledge. Learning about the practices of other land-based cultures helps me reconnect to those parts of my own heritage that can still be salvaged and rekindled, and also grieve for what is lost.’
Milla sees so many people as ‘fragmented from their own spiritual and plant traditions and so hungry for this kind of meaning and belonging, that when they see something more intact, they feel entitled to take it – to adopt it as if it were their own without naming or crediting it.’ In her education and outreach work, online writing, and in-person workshops or gatherings, she is really blunt. ‘I say, “Think about and check in about whatever you do with plants – if it’s an asshole move, don’t do it. And check in with someone other than yourself, check in with folx who might be affected differently as a result of these forces you benefit from.”’
Her plant practice: This is ‘focused on the ancestral food medicine of my people’ and including learning more about her biological father’s Palestinian ancestry, ‘is inseparable from my spiritual practice, the cosmology of my people, an animistic worldview. My spiritual practice is inseparable from my activism; the idea that as an offering for the earth in this age, we must do what we can to protect and nourish the diversity of life.’
Other inspiring womenGrandmothers, hedgewitches, women with folk remedies for any ailment, mighty kitchen gardens and simple herbal healing knowledge. ‘My grandmother communicated directly with plants –her window sill was covered in geraniums. She would chat with them daily as she watered them, pinching off old leaves, and making sure they were well-nourished.’
Mary Siisip Geniusz, plantswoman and writer. ‘Her book, Plants Have So Much to Give Us, All We Have to Do Is Ask: Anishinaabe Botanical Teachings (2015), has been a foundational and comforting text to me. This book is the affirmation of reciprocal, animist, storied plant ways, and while I wouldn’t use it as a guidebook since I’m not Anishinaabe, its teachings are healing and affirming of my own ancestral practices.”
Layla K. Feghali, founder of the River Rose Apothecary. ‘Her South West Asia and North Africa project (SWANA) is dedicated to the remembrance, resurrection, and reclamation of ancestral medicine and the ancient traditions’ of those areas.
Rachel Budde, founder of Fat and the Moon, which produces organic body care products. ‘Her work encompasses preserving, gathering, and cultivating her own ancestral Slovenian plant knowledge as an American-born descendant of immigrants.
Image credits: Self-portrait and foraged medicinal flowers and leaves drying for later use in teas and preparations, both photographed by Milla Prince.
Extract taken from The Earth in Her Hands – A book celebrating 75 Extraordinary Women Working in the World of Plants © Copyright 2019 by Jennifer Jewell. Published by Timber Press, Portland, Oregon. Used by permission of the publisher. All rights reserved.
Rakes [reads]
‘My aim is to show that with very little planning and effort, growing and cooking your own fruit and vegetables can be an immensely pleasurable and rewarding experience,’ says Aaron Bertelsen in the introduction to his book Growing Fruit & Vegetables in Pots.
It’s not too late to plant up a veg garden of your own, and with garden centres reopening, there’s now a better chance of getting hold of seeds and plug plants.
Bertelsen gives you practical advice and inspiration on how to create a ‘garden’ in your space that’s both beautiful and useful. Whether you have a window box, a balcony, or a small terrace, he shows that lack of space is no barrier to growing healthy, delicious home-grown ingredients.
Inspired by his courtyard kitchen garden at Great Dixter, cook and gardener Bertelsen shares his expert knowledge of growing fruit and vegetables in containers, with clear advice on growing, choosing a suitable plant pot and maintaining your crops on your very own ‘veg patch’.
Try it, and you’ll find you can grow anything from herbs to edible flowers, veg and even fruit in pots! There is a real joy in growing your own ingredients. The book also includes more than 50 recipes on what to do with your harvest.
£24.95 hardback, published by Phaidon.
Growing to give
Words: Janice Morton
While some people are key workers, or are sewing hospital scrubs or delivering shopping to vulnerable neighbours, Nicola Bird has found an innovative way to cope and help others during the Coronavirus lockdown – floranthropy.
As the word suggests, floranthropy is about using flowers to give back in a way that brings beauty, benefits to the environment and meaning into our lives and those of others, and that’s what’s at the heart of The Floral Project which Bird launched in April this year. The project encourages people to grow bee-friendly flowers to give away to family, friends or vulnerable members of the community (when the lockdown has ended), or simply to enjoy at home – and helps bring communities closer together.
‘The project’s about giving a sense of purpose and hope for the future right now, about bringing things to life rather than thinking about the doom and gloom out there,’ explains Bird, who lives in Chobham, Surrey. ‘As Audrey Hepburn once said, “to plant a garden is to believe in tomorrow”. ‘It’s a brilliant distraction, almost meditative and incredibly therapeutic. You learn a new skill. It’s good exercise. You get to give something back to the community by growing flowers for others. It’s also a great way to get children to spend less time on their devices and to engage with nature.’
Bird, 48, admits she had never been interested in gardening before but has always loved flowers. ‘We bought a house with a beautiful garden with the idea that the kids would be running about outside, building dens – but they never set foot in it and neither did I really – until January this year.’
Finding an outlet in growing flowers has enabled Bird to enjoy being at home during lockdown – a situation that, in the past, she would have found ‘terrifying’. Outwardly, she is a successful businesswoman, wife and mother of three; inwardly she has struggled with severe anxiety and panic attacks for more than 20 years. Then she discovered a very different way of understanding and managing with her anxiety, which she shared in her 2019 book, A Little Peace Of Mind (see her lockdown anxiety tips below).
The catalyst for The Floral Project came when Bird realised how damaging shop-bought cut-flowers can be to the environment, so she looked into growing her own blooms. ‘I chose a small patch of the garden, ordered some raised beds – about 12 metres – and a little £50 greenhouse. Online, I discovered a whole group of UK flower farmers (mostly women) growing seasonal flowers right on our doorsteps, and I learned a lot from them,’ she says.
But after a while, Bird realised she was growing more flowers than she could use, or give to friends and family. ‘So I thought why not donate the flowers to the local Age Concern to distributed to older people in the community?’ she adds. ‘The charity was delighted to be involved and then I thought how wonderful it would be to replicate this all over the UK’ – and The Floral Project was born.
‘There are lots of fantastic local organisations that provide befrienders to those who are housebound or vulnerable, but after that visit is over, imagine if the volunteer could leave behind a beautiful vase of flowers to remind that person that they are loved and thought about all week long? It can be so easy for older people to become invisible to those of us with busy lives. This lockdown has slowed us down and made us aware of how many isolated vulnerable people there are in our communities.
‘When the coronavirus hit, I thought I’d have to put the idea on ice, but actually, it’s the perfect time to be doing this. Never before have our feelings of community been stronger, the needs of the vulnerable been more apparent, or have people had the time to get involved. And indeed her whole family has got involved: daughter Tilly, 16, helps with the project’s website and social media; 14-year-old Ned taking photos; Bea, 12, is hands-on in the garden; and husband Matt has been helping build raised flowerbeds.
Currently, the project, which is free to join, has a small but growing band of followers. A £12.99 Flower Kit starter pack is available to those who want to take part, which during May includes zinnia, scabiosa, gypsophila, orlaya and centaura. Alternatively, people can order seeds from their local garden centres and join the project’s online community to get advice on growing bee-friendly blooms, and to share stories, tips and pictures on Facebook and Instagram.
‘It doesn’t matter whether you have a huge garden, just a few metres of flowerbed or some pots on your patio, or if you’re an experienced gardener or a complete beginner. We’re all learning and growing together,’ says Bird, who herself is taking an RHS horticultural course. ‘We may get to give away our flowers this summer to those who need them. We may not. But we’ll have learned a new skill, connected with like-minded people and grown some beautiful flowers to brighten up lives in these dark times.’
For more information, visit The Floral Project’s website.
The Covid crisis has led to all sorts of resources becoming available online. If you’re looking for guidance on where to find some great talks, head to the Photo London Talks archive.
The archive brings together video recordings of the world-class panels and talks held at Photo London over the past five years. It’s a free resource that gives everyone access to conversations with more than 100 artists and curators, including Sebastiao Salgado, Edward Burtynsky, Hannah Starkey, Don McCullin, Liz Johnson Arthur, Martin Parr, Stephen Shore, Susan Meiselas, Taryn Simon, Simon Baker, Hans Ulrich Obrist and Isaac Julien. Every day a new talk will be available for streaming on its website.
Head to Photo London’s website to discover the latest talks.
Monday 4th May – Staged Reality: Alex Prager
Alex Prager’s photography, which primarily uses staged figures to create meticulously devised mise en scène, is often described as filmic and hyperreal, synthesising uncanny images of fiction and reality. Her images touch on themes such as voyeurism, alienation and anxiety, capturing a fractional slice of a narrative, and inviting the viewer to complete the story. Prager discusses her photographic practice with Nathalie Herschdorfer, presenting images from across her projects, to examine the construction of images and the consumption of images in our media-saturated society.
Image: Alex Prager, Star Shoes. © and courtesy of the artist
Tuesday 5th May – Bruce Davidson
Internationally renowned American photographer Bruce Davidson has been a member of Magnum Photos since 1958. Davidson speaks to Shoair Mavlian, Director of Photoworks, Brighton.
Image: Young men join the march from the Selma to Montgomery, Alabama, organised by the Rev Dr Martin Luther King Jr. in March 1965. Bruce Davidson/Magnum Photos
Wednesday 6th May – Liz Johnson Artur
Liz Johnson Artur is a Ghanaian-Russian photographer based in London. Her work documents the lives of black people from across the African diaspora. Here she is in conversation with Hans Ulrich Obrist, Artistic Director of the Serpentine Galleries, London
Image: Liz Johnson Artur – summer 2019. © Liz Johnston Artur
Thursday 7 May - The New York Times: Carbon's Casualties
Since 2015, Pulitzer Prize-winning New York Times photographer Josh Haner has worked across the globe documenting the pressing and wide-ranging realities of climate change. Combining the aerial freedom of dramatic drone footage with the intimacy of still photographs from the ground, the series is an intricate exploration of the many consequences resulting from a warming world, and Haner’s visual narrative starkly illuminates the ultimate legacy of climate change: the loss of our planet’s vast heritage. From chronicling communities disappearing alongside the surroundings that once sustained them, to natural ecosystems on the brink of crisis, to disappearing sites of irreplaceable cultural history, Haner highlights the grave repercussions of a shifting world as natural ecosystems and ways of life are vanishing.
Image: Josh Haner/The New York Times
Friday 8th May – Double Take: Cortis & Sonderegger
In conversation with Brett Rogers, Director of The Photographers’ Gallery in London, Swiss artists Cortis & Sonderegger discuss their photographic practice, including their project ‘Icons’, which saw them recreate iconic historic photographs in the studio in miniature out of craft materials. They explore their ideas ‘to outwit the documentary aspect of photography’ as well as the motives and intricacies behind this project which includes the recreation of photographs such as La Cour du Domaine du Gras (1826) by Nicéphore Niépce and more politically charged images like Tiananmen Square, 1989 by Stuart Franklin.
Image: Cortis & Sonderegger, Making of Concorde by Toshihko Sato (2000) 2013 from the series Icons © Cortis & Sonderegger
Photographer Manuel Mendoza usually takes portraits. Here we show his new sitters in all their glorious colour
TOP DRESSING COMPETITION
Locked down in the garden? Then it’s time to dress up! Here are 12 of our favourite top dressers who rose to our #rakesgardenglamour challenge this week.
Thank you to everyone who took part. It was really difficult to come up with our top 12… but here they are – all will receive a copy of the latest issue.
Winners: @sarahaaedwards, @keava, @emma_bass, @kilahgram, - @brandykraft, @greenisthething,@seachangeflower, @Alchemilla_ , @Yanskates, @henekroling, @cultivatedbychristin,@Handsinthedirt
To everyone who took part but didn’t make it into the final 12, you were fantastic too and, if you are up for it, the challenge continues this week.
‘You know, I don’t know how one can walk by a tree and not be happy at the sight of it?’ writes Fyodor Dostoyevsky in The Idiot.
Photo editor Jochen Raiß collects vintage photographs and his obsession found him looking through boxes of them in flea markets around Frankfurt. From his first find of an image of a woman in a tree 25 years ago, he’s now amassed a collection of 2,300 images of women in trees. Mostly anonymous, these black-and-white images are a remarkable archive of amateur photography. Every now and then a year is handwritten on the reverse, sometimes along with a first name, but nothing else hints at the identity of the women depicted. ‘I love pictures that aren’t perfect, that I know nothing about. Then stories immediately being developing in my mind,’ says Raiß.
A small edited collection has been made into two volumes – Women in Trees and More Women in Trees – women pose in bathing suits, wearing cowboy hats, cheerfully dangling their legs, casually nestling in the forks of branches, or athletically climbing to the treetop, sometimes with beer in hand – each photograph has its own story with one common theme – the women are in trees.
Raiß has already gone through many different kinds of possible interpretations: ‘For me, the women happen to be taking a Sunday walk with their partners,’ he explains. ‘They are well dressed, look happy, and some of them seem to be really in love. These are young people who went off with a camera, clowned around, and captured their happiness in a snapshot.’
Raiß can only guess at why so few men seem to climb trees: ‘Most of the pictures are from the early days of amateur photography, and at the time, men clung to the camera.’
Women in Trees and More Women in Trees
Ed. Jochen Raiß. Graphic design by Gabriele Sabolewski. Text(s) by Jochen Raiß
Publisher: Hatje Cantz Verlag; Publisher: Hatje Cantz Verlag
Priced around £15
Hardback ISBN 978-3-7757-4218-4/978-3-7757-4315-0
APPLICATION DATES ANNOUNCED
The McQueens Flowers International School has just launched its annual scholarship programme. There are two scholarship places offered on their vocational course in London [one for a florist from abroad and one for a florist from the UK and Ireland]. There’s also special bespoke training in New York for one talented florist from the United States.
The programme is aimed at supporting talented florists who are new to the craft and have a maximum of one year’s experience in the profession. There is no age restriction, and you don’t need another floristry school diploma to join.
All you need to do is visit their website and apply using the application form by 20th May (which asks for a 300-word statement of why you became a florist and why you deserve a scholarship). All applicants will then be asked to complete a creative task in early June and post it on Instagram ( check details on the website).
A shortlist of five for each region ( UK/ international/ USA) will be selected and the winners will be announced in July. The winners will get a full scholarship and runners-up will receive a 30% discount off a vocational or one-week course.
A great opportunity to be taught at one of the most prestigious flower schools.
https://mcqueens.co.uk/article/announce-scholarship/
Face to Faith: Mount Kailash | Tibet
In 2012, Samuel Zuder set out to Mount Kailash in Tibet. According to legend, the yogi Milarepa was the only one to have scaled it in the 12th century, although thousands of pilgrims circumambulated it. Mount Kailash – also known as the Jewel of Snow due to its unusually symmetrical form – lies in the middle of the rocky desert of Tibet’s Changthang plateau and is venerated by four religious orientations – Hinduism, Buddhism, Jaina and Bön. Zuder captures the mysticism of this incredible landscape, its promise of happiness and enlightenment, in this series of images. With his large-format, analogue camera, Zuder accompanied pilgrims for several weeks on their 53km-long path around Mount Kailash, which they regard as the origin of the world. The result is an incredible series of portraits.
Approx. £55 hardback, published by Hatje Cantz Verlag
Istanbul-based photographer Cihan Bacak takes a road trip in Anatolia, a juxtaposition of modern-day documentary within this ancient landscape
Shot in eastern Anatolia (Adiyaman, Mount Nemrut and Diyarbakir in Turkey)
Rakes [reads]
London is often hailed as the greenest city in Europe, but it’s also full of flowers. Writer Natasha Goodfellow and Illustrator Clover Robin have made an illustrated map/ guide that leads you on a fragrant trail of London’s key floral destinations, from markets and nurseries to botanic and physic gardens via trend-setting florists and flower schools. A London Floral reveals 87 different addresses of floral interest – from rose and herb gardens and blooming borders in well-known parks to dining among flowers. Presented in an attractive slipcase and divided by area, it’s easy to use and beautifully illustrated.
£8.50, published by Finch Publishing
Imaginary Flowers is an exhibition of Brandy Kraft’s work at the Botanical Gardens of Gothenburg. It will run all summer, opening May 8 through September 27.
Brandy Kraft playfully creates her collaged flowers - taking elements from different species to create an imaginary new one that she paints on large canvases. To highlight the resiliency and diversity of the worlds’ most beautiful yet endangered flowering plants her exhibition ‘Imaginary Flowers’ at the Botanical Gardens of Gothenburg, Sweden will run all summer, opening in May and running through to the end of September.
Rakes [reads]
Jan von Holleben is a photographer whose work borders on the surreal but is full of an incredible sense of mischief and fun. We’ve selected some of his floral monsters here but there’s much more.
In his latest book, Kosmos, he has constructed a cosmos of six planets with little more than a box of props, a team of willing humans, some clippings from the garden, and his camera.
Click, click, click… strange things happen with his camera, with no digital manipulation. Ghosts flash through the Berlin cityscape. Plants cast shadows on the sky. Places gather in the same place. Monsters imitate flowers (or is it the other way around? )
Each planet presents an optical riddle. The clues are visual, with no answers, just your imagination to solve the puzzle.
Approx. £80, published by Little Steidl
Michelle Mason talks about the current fashion in floristry for imitating the still-life canvases from the golden age of Dutch painting
The trend for creating botanical art is nothing new. Scientific interest in botany and horticulture towards the end of the 16th century inspired Dutch painters, such as Jan van Huysum, Jacob van Walscapelle and Rachel Ruysch, to create studio still-lifes that captured incredible detail almost 150 years before the invention of photography.
These artists of Holland’s golden age of painting were heavily influenced by the emergence of horticulture in the Netherlands and the new exotic plants that were available to them such as hyacinths from Asia, pineapples from South America and the highly prized tulip from Turkey. Flower paintings, such as those by Ambrosius Bosschaert and his Dutch contemporaries, were extravagant still-life compositions that often included arrangements with seashells, butterflies, insects, ornate ceramics and fruits, as well as the newly obtainable botanicals, and were created over long periods of studio time.
These 400-year-old paintings are currently informing a new generation of designers whose work and posts on social media are presenting an alternative approach to working with flowers. It helps that many of this new wave of florists have come from a variety of non-traditional backgrounds such as fashion, styling, graphics and even farming. Their inventive flair for design and composition is redefining flower art, as is their desire to craft arrangements that boycott commercial plant varieties in favour of heritage breeds by growing produce from seed or bulb.
At the London Flower School, where students from all walks of life attend career courses and workshops, I asked co-founder Wagner Kreusch why he thinks the Dutch Master look is so current. ‘Floristry has seen a major boost in the last few years, largely inspired by a renewed interest in nature and history,’ he says. ‘It’s not just about flower arranging, it’s about layering and texture, and being daring with colour. The Dutch painters were very daring, and colour theory is something we look at during our workshops to demonstrate the difference between analogous and complementary colours.’ He explains that complementary colours [those opposite each other on the colour wheel] played a large part in the golden age of Dutch painting. ‘They were brave with concept and colour, look at the way they paired blues with reds.’ Wagner also points out that ‘some of our students come from non-creative backgrounds, and they want to do something artistic, and floristry doesn’t seem as scary as paint and brushes; it’s more democratic.’
Yorkshire-based florist Anna Potter, owner of Swallows and Damsons, is recognised for her work with colour and seasonal flowers. She receives commissions from all over the world and has a cult following on Instagram. Like many floral designers, she embraces a uniquely individual style, with an imaginative, often painterly approach to flower bouquets and large-scale events. Her Sheffield studio is the base from which she plans and creates designs for private clients and weddings, using one-off combinations that often include wildflowers, hedgerow finds, meadow flowers and woodland pine. It is this same artistic desire and inventive style that informs many of today’s florists as they lean towards an earthy, homegrown feel, often incorporating flowers grown by the designer to create one-off hand-tied compositions or quirky bouquets that can feature anything from herbs to vines and foraged grasses.
London-based floral stylists Aesme, founded by sisters Alex and Jessica Nutting, use fresh produce from their Hampshire cutting garden. Inspired by a love of the history and the romance of the English garden, old-fashioned flowers such as wild foxgloves and heritage roses often feature in their designs, and they add that growing produce ‘not readily available to florists adds unexpected elements to our arrangements – intricate tendrils of a vine, an overarching briar, the movement of a foraged branch’. •
Main image: London Flower School
Photographer: Shigeru Masui
In a project that began in her grandmother’s allotment, photographer Kerry Williams highlights the delicacy and beauty of viewing plants through netting and fleece
Rakes [reads]
The Japanese Garden is an exploration of more than 90 beautiful gardens spanning 1,200 years of Japanese design. This book offers an insight into the art, culture and aesthetics of the Japanese garden, through a carefully curated collection of Shinto shrines, Buddhist temple gardens, imperial gardens, tea gardens and contemporary urban designs.
Author Sophie Walker explores how the Japanese garden has been used as a tool for religious, philosophical and poetic contemplation for hundreds of years. Walker places the garden in the broader historical context of a rich cultural heritage, while examining the enduring impact of this Japanese art.
She investigates key design elements such as the path, reflections, the use of borrowed scenery and the symbolism of the courtyard garden, alongside broader aesthetic concepts such as wabi-sabi and mitate, Zen Buddhism and the symbolism of plants.
Each chapter begins with a personal essay on the philosophy surrounding an individual component of Japanese design followed by a survey of gardens and a short summary of each . These gardens vary from ancient Shinto shrines and imperial gardens to contemporary Zen installations and private gardens, including Kenroku-en (Garden of the Six Sublimities) in Kanazawa, Ryoan-ji (Temple of the Dragon at Peace) in Kyoto, Ani Jinja (Ani Shrine) in Okayama, Katsura Imperial Villa, Kamigamo Jinjain in Kyoto, Tairyu-sanso in Sakyo-ku and Saiho-ji (Moss Garden) in Kyoto. Original essays by leading artists, architects and cultural experts such as Tadao Ando, Tatsuo Miyajima, John Pawson, Lee Ufan, Marcus de Sautoy, Tan Twan Eng and Anish Kapoor are interspersed throughout the book and add their unique perspective.
The book includes photography, archival photos and illustrations by respected figures such as David Hockney, Dayanita Singh, Richard Long, Anish Kapoor, Christo, Dan Pearson, Steven Holl, Yves Klein, Isamu Noguchi, Dan Pearson and David Chipperfield, many published in here for the first time. It also features a glossary of important Japanese terms and concepts, and a specially commissioned photographic appendix of the key plants used in the Japanese garden, both native and long cultivated, from trees and shrubs to ferns and mosses.
The Japanese Garden
By Sophie Walker
Published by Phaidon https://uk.phaidon.com/
Hardback ISBN 978 071487 4777
Like winemaking before it, Australia’s perfume industry is harnessing the New World’s botanical riches to age-old French expertise, creating bouquets that will tantalise your senses, says Amanda Carr
When British botanist and forager extraordinaire Joseph Banks set sail on the HMS Endeavour in 1768, along with his friend, Captain James Cook, he could have had no idea how bountiful their journey would be.
As Cook and his crew charted the coastline of New Zealand, Banks busied himself with his sketchbook and wardian cases, collecting thousands of local botanical specimens. Many of those he picked up are now ubiquitous garden plants the world over. Plants such as New Zealand flax (Phormium tenax), which in the 18th century was used by the Maori to create fabric for clothes, but which you’re now more likely to find making an architecturally spiky statement in your neighbour’s border.
As the ship made its way to Australia, Banks logged many more plants that were new to his eyes, often with a super-fragrant quality that would have been equally new to his nose. All were eventually transported back to Britain. Among them were eucalyptus, mimosa, acacias and, of course, many different types of Banksia, 172 of which occur naturally in Australia. Altogether, around 80 species of plant now bear Banks’ name.
Enthused by Banks’ abundant botanical finds, Captain Cook changed the name of the landing site where this ambitious party first ‘discovered’ Australia, from Stingray Bay to Botany Bay. And who wouldn’t be impressed with the magnificent landscape and extraordinary range of flora found in this part of the southern hemisphere, baked by an unforgiving sun, fed by rich minerals and, up until Banks’ arrival, left mostly undisturbed to grow and evolve into some of the most gloriously diverse plant life on the planet.
Fast forward to today and Australia is still impressing visiting Europeans, who continue to name things after Joseph Banks. Although instead of carrying wardian cases and sketchbooks, they are more likely to be packing atomisers and bottles. After spending 25 years in the luxury fragrance industry, Dimitri Weber, a French-Belgian PR consultant, travelled from Paris to Australia to organise the launch of his client Cartier’s La Panthère fragrance in 2015. After extending his stay to visit an aunt, he discovered, a bit like Banks before him, its extraordinary botanical beauty and realised that he’d found his new home. ‘It’s still such an untapped land – rugged, surprising, rich and spectacular. The variety of plants and flowers seems endless and that is exactly what perfume should be all about — paying tribute to nature,’ he says. Surprising then, that this ambrosial landscape hasn’t inspired its own fine fragrance industry, until now.
Weber launched his fragrance house, Goldfield & Banks (named after Joseph) in 2016, with the aim of reflecting Australia’s rich flora in scent. His is one of a handful of young fine-fragrance companies based in Australian and New Zealand that are using the indigenous plant and landscape as inspiration for both stories and ingredients unrepresented in perfume.
‘This country is rich in fascinating native plants – such as tea tree, macadamia, boronia, finger lime, Australian sandalwood, buddha wood and blue cypress – that produce beautiful essences and essential oils. I love the fact that they are exotic and often rare,’ he says. ‘It can take years to grow some of them before you can extract their juices, and some have never been used before in modern perfumery. I wanted to create a perfume house that celebrated the country’s extraordinary beauty and botanical richness.’
With the landscape as his muse, Weber set to work creating a range of fragrances that would have made Mr Banks proud. His newest perfume, Southern Bloom, features the boronia flower, which is found on Bruny Island, near Tasmania. There, the small crop of highly fragrant blooms is harvested swiftly to preserve the delicate aroma molecules. Because the annual haul is modest, boronia absolute is a rarely used and expensive perfume ingredient. In Southern Bloom, it helps provide a floral lushness, a textural, velvety smoothness you can almost stroke as you inhale the scent. Hints of crushed-underfoot leafiness blend with the weighty warmth of Australian white sandalwood to create an intriguingly unique scent. It’s like an exotic walk through a lavish bushland forest, not your average ‘bouquet’ floral, that’s for sure.
Weber creates his fragrances with the help of François Merle-Baudoin, a fifth-generation perfumer from the traditional capital of French perfumery, Grasse, now based in Melbourne. Weber also works with Australian essential oil company ABP, which is investing in sustainable wild harvesting of lesser-known natives oils.
Crucially, ABP has a global palette of more than 5,000 raw fragrance oils. ‘We need all the international ingredients and that French expertise,’ Weber explains. ‘In the past, people have tried to create Australian fragrances without help from the experts and it didn’t work. Today, it’s great that the help is coming to us.’
This sounds like someone from the embryonic New World wine industry talking 30 years ago. Might Australian fragrance be about to have a similar surge in popularity? Weber is confident. ‘Much like the wine industry, where the French brought their expertise to Australia, so it is with fragrance.’
Some lessons from viticulture have been learnt closer to home. Cellar Feels, part of Curionoir’s Curio Glass perfume collection created by Tiffany Jeans in New Zealand, is inspired by wine-making days with her grandfather. ‘He was a very humble maker. We’d go picking grapes together, then squash them underfoot when we got home. He’d also throw in any fruit he had leftover, like orange and passion fruit. While we were making the juice, he’d talk to me about the handmade glass carboys (demijohns) which had been handed down through our family. I saw them as functional works of art.’ Cellar Feels is juicy, with hints of green vine leaves and luscious fruit, and lavender acts as a cool note to represent the chill of the cellar, with additional dustiness coming from the black tea and nutmeg.
The Australian sandalwood (Santalum spicatum) is synonymous with the continent’s sun-bleached heartlands, where this indigenous tree thrives in the red-dust landscape of the Kununurra goldfields framed by cobalt-blue skies. It’s the heartwood of these sustainably forested trees that’s the source of the fragrant oil, which has a creamy, light amber essence and is at the heart of many Australian perfumes.
You will find sandalwood in every one of the seven perfumes created by Map Of The Heart, a new Sydney-based fragrance range launched by filmmakers Sarah Blair and Jeffrey Darling. Having spent decades creating award-winning advertising films for global brands, these two creative and life partners wanted to bring their film-making expertise and storytelling prowess to fragrance making.
‘The sandalwood was put in by our perfumer, Frenchman Jacques Huclier, as a fil rouge, a unifying thread running through all the scents,’ Blair explains. ‘We loved this connection to our heritage and that it came from indigenous forests in Western Australian.’ Does Australian sandalwood smell different from other types then? ‘Yes, and in each of the fragrances we’ve created, we use a different facet of the scent.’
Blair points out that Map Of The Heart also uses the undisputed perfume expertise of the French. ‘Our friend and cinematographer Michael Seresin, of Seresin wines, brought French viticulturists to New Zealand when he started his vineyard in 1992. We’re using Jacques [Huclier] and Pierre Dinand, the acclaimed perfume bottle designer, in the same way.’ Dinand’s bottle design is an anatomically correct representation of a human heart and, coincidentally, a perfect fit in the palm of your hand as you spray.
Blair and Darling certainly know how to communicate with today’s young fragrance shopper. Their artistic group of friends — dancers, photographers, filmmakers and fashion creatives — turn up on the brand’s Stories page, expanding the idea that fragrance is more than just a nice smell – it’s a connection to something more meaningful and engaging, such as heritage.
‘The natural landscape is my heritage,’ Blair explains. She highlights the use of feijoa, a Brazilian fruit widely grown in New Zealand, home of her ancestors. ‘When we were developing our Red Heart v.3 fragrance, I went to a friend’s place for dinner. She’s a Kiwi and had baked a feijoa pie, the smell of which immediately transported me back to my grandmother’s kitchen in Auckland. I wondered then if this might be the ingredient that we’d been searching for in Red Heart, something to temper the sweetness and bring an earthiness to it.’ She was right and the addition of feijoa ‘finished’ the fragrance.
When seeking inspiration for the line’s second fragrance, Black Heart v.2, Blair was watching the Sydney fire department set controlled fires in the bushland surrounding her house. She was transfixed by the blackened eucalyptus plants. ‘The flames had died down and the ash looked like summer snow, the afternoon sun sharding through the smoke. I thought, this is what we wanted the fragrance to be.’ She sent a photo of the landscape to Huclier with just one sentence as inspiration – ‘I want to fall into it’.
The resulting Black Heart v.2 fragrance inhales as a smudge of smoked eucalyptus pushed against the creamy sweetness of sandalwood, with hints of spiced orange and burnt rubber. ‘I think of eucalyptus and citrus notes as being the sharp sunlight that cuts through the smoke, the optimism of the darkness,’ Blair explains. ‘Also, Australians are generally very direct. I guess you could say the eucalyptus reflects the ability to cut through the bullshit.’ It’s hard to argue with that.
Indigenous flowers are so important to internationally renowned Australian florist Saskia Havekes that she launched a fragrance line to compliment her Grandiflora flower business in Potts Point, Sydney. ‘I adore Australian native flowers and foliage, and have promoted their beauty from the very start of Grandiflora. That was 25 years ago, and things have changed dramatically since then. In the past, we had to convince our clients of the beauty of native plants as most of them shied away, preferring more European flowers. Now native plants are snatched up within the earliest hours of opening our doors and returning from market.’
Does she have a favourite Australian flower? ‘I love the pink waratah in September, flowering gum in summer, delicate flannel flowers, Banksia robur, the South Australian paper daisies, and many of the oversized Western Australia gum nuts that are totally prehistoric and last forever.’
Grandiflora fragrances launched in 2013, and the collection is now five-strong and sold internationally. The latest launch is Boronia, created in collaboration with French perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour, and clearly something of a star flower for Australian perfume brands. Grandiflora’s interpretation places the lightly spiced floral notes of the boronia flower alongside fruity cassis and freesia for a warm, glow of a scent.
What differences does Havekes think Australians bring to the world of perfume? ‘A freshness and innocence that’s rare in Europe, as they have such a deep, long history with fragrance. We’re certainly the brave new kids on the block.’
Over in New Zealand, embryonic fragrance company Curionoir is inspired by the Maori heritage of its founder Tiffany Jeans. Another advertising creative-turned-perfumer, Jeans discovered her new career when the scented candles she carved for guests at her wedding proved such a hit that she was inspired to market the fragrance. She calls it Dark Bouquet. ‘I wanted it to walk our guests back into the bush,’ she says. ‘It has orange flower and lots of jasmine, and there’s vetiver and cypress too, for the earthy woodiness of the land.’
Her darkly artisan aesthetic and wise-beyond-her-years thoughtfulness has influenced her fragrance collection. ‘My Maori heritage is everything to me,’ she says. ‘I am inherently inspired by the look of our land, plants and how I experienced them while growing up.’ So what does New Zealand smell like? ‘Earthy inland and salty along the coast. We have wonderful bushlands, which we often venture into, and they’re damp and humid, with dark green and brown hues and the most amazing textures. Right now, we are in the height of summer, so the dirt earth scent is rich.’
Curionoir’s current collection concentrates on translating family stories into fragrance, creating sensory experiences that are connected to the land. Pūrotu Rose, for example, is a smoked rose with a frankincense overlay that was inspired by Jean’s great-grandfather’s Maori funeral celebration or tangi. ‘He lived on the land he was born on until he passed, and his relationship with it was his life. The smell of the earth being shovelled by my cousins on to his coffin was so rich and bitter from the heat, then smoke from the hangi [traditional Maori meal cooked in the ground], wafted through, and when we sat to eat, the roses grown by my aunties that adorned the tables in the tahu [dining hall] added some floral softness. It was a beautiful celebration of life.’
This fragrant representation of antipodean landscapes and the stories reflecting the local flora, fauna and culture are almost a Joseph Banks’ adventure in a bottle. But how long before the rest of the world discovers the secret fragrances of the Antipodes? ‘A lot of our New Zealand natural botanicals are protected and we don’t have any history of scaled-up fragrance distilling, but it’s something I’m working on,’ says Jeans, who acknowledges the challenges of exporting her creations to the wider world.
For now, though, the rich cache of antipodean fragrances is there, waiting to be discovered by those in the know and with their nose close to the ground. But for how much longer? Like the botanists and winemakers before them, Australia and New Zealand’s perfumers are ready to unlock the bounty and beauty of this extraordinary land of floral and herbaceous richness – and put it in a bottle for us all.
This feature is taken from issue 10 of rakesprogress.
Olverum is a luxurious aromatic blend of 10 pure essential oils. This highly concentrated, therapeutic bath oil is an effective way to naturally relieve stress and help you achieve a great night’s sleep. Olverum is also great for ease aching or sore muscles, and is the perfect soothing antidote to a cold or flu. It has a gorgeously unisex scent.Its ingredients have remained largely unchanged for 83 years, and until now it has only been known by a cult following in the UK. Now beautifully repackaged, Olverum recently launched under new British ownership. It is the ultimate seasonal beauty treat – perfect for the bath season ahead.
The 125ml size is £35 and will be enough for 25 baths, the 250ml size is £62 and enough for 50 baths. The travel set is £24 and enough for 9 baths. Main stockists are Liberty, Olverum.com and Fenwick.
Jim Durrant from McBean’s Orchids tells us how to take care of the nation’s favourite houseplant
Photographs: Piet Johnson
‘It is spring again. The earth is like a child that knows poems by heart.’
Rainer Maria Rilke
Photographer: J C Hermier
Floral styling: Gaia Eros @stormanadgraceflowers
Model: Marina Ritschel
Flowers: Hellebore, artemisia, Fritillaria michailovskyi, cherry blossom, blue star fern, variegated ivy
A NEW URBAN EPICENTRE OF NATURE
The Natural History Museum is planning to transform its five-acre gardens into an exemplar of urban wildlife research, conservation and awareness – galvanising a national drive to re-engage people with the natural world and urban biodiversity, which it warns is under threat like never before.
Architects Feilden Fowles, working closely with landscape architects J & L Gibbons, is leading a multidisciplinary design team, which includes Pentagram, EngineersHRW and Max Fordham, on an ambitious new project to reimagine the five-acre gardens surrounding the museum in South Kensington, London. The key aims of the Urban Nature Project are increasing biodiversity, accessibility, opportunities for education, and the usability of the museum’s grounds.
The project will include gardens that create new, immersive educational experiences and varied natural habitats; a new garden building with a visitors’ café and space for garden storage and plant displays; and a new learning and activity centre that will combine facilities for scientific work, education, maintenance and supporting the volunteer community. The east to west journey through the re-imagined gardens will lead visitors to the Darwin Courtyard, where a new project space will be created.
Clare Matterson, the Natural History Museum’s Executive Director of Engagement, says: ‘At a time when people are required to stay inside, the nature on our doorsteps takes on ever greater importance. But it is under threat like never before; we have suffered decades of decline in the abundance and distribution of many UK species and, in urban areas especially, we urgently need to learn more about how to mitigate pressing environmental challenges such as climate change and biodiversity loss. By 2030, nine of out ten of us will live in urban areas, meaning nature is quite literally backed into a corner as concrete cities expand.
‘We hope the Urban Nature Project will not only galvanise people to re-engage with the nature on their doorstep, but build on the museum’s scientific and public work. We want to trigger a movement that will ultimately help reverse these declines.’
Mathew Frith, Director of Conservation at the London Wildlife Trust, agrees: “We know that everyone, especially children and young people, needs access to natural green space for both their wellbeing and to understand and appreciate nature. Without better engagement with nature in our towns and cities now, we risk denying our children, the future advocates for this planet's amazing biological richness, the chance to protect and enhance it. This is why this nationwide Urban Nature Project is so critical. We need to learn more about and connect with nature, and act together to protect the nature of where most of us live, work and play.’
Director of Feilden Fowles, Edmund Fowles, said: ‘The ambitious Urban Nature Project reflects our practices’ social and environmental values. Along with our multi-disciplinary team, we have enjoyed the challenge of bringing to life a walk through over 500 million years of the earth’s history, from the pre-Cambrian era to the present day, translating vital messages about human impact on nature and the role we all have to play in revitalising urban bio-diversity today.’
Image: The new plans for the Natural History Museum five-acre gardens
These are surreal times and we are having to adapt and improvise, but we will keep on sharing news and ideas, and continue to showcase the magazine here – offering (we hope) inspiration and quiet escape.
There are some back issues still available to buy, including the latest (issue 12), and we will update you on the publication date of issue 13 - due early 2021.
We are constantly evolving and trying to improve our website to bring you more features and photographic essays, and would love to hear from you with any submissions and news. We are also working on a new website for our publication rakesSENSE , looking at the art of fragrance
At a time when many of us are confined or working from our homes , the natural world on our doorsteps has never been more important or appreciated.
Please take care and enjoy the slowdown if you can.
Victoria and Tom